Everyone loves Max Delaloubie's friendly brasserie, an almost too-perfect reproduction of 1940s' Paris, opening onto a cobbled street at the entrance to Dublin Castle.
This Dublin restaurants food, too, has that ring of Parisian authenticity - rillettes, frogs' legs - and early concern amongst devotees that such dishes may not survive in this essentially conservative city seem so far to be unfounded.
And there is plenty there for everyone including lots of less contentious treats like Croque Monsieur and Croque Madame, Soupe a l'Oignon, Moules Frites, good pastries and a range of classic home-made desserts.
Meanwhile, the proprietor continues to make people welcome and wannabe Parisians of every generation can groove to music that stretches from Henri Krein, Brassens and Piaf to St Etienne.
The shortish wine list offers few surprises, but overall both wine and food offer very good value for money.
Also at: 133 Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2, where there is an epicerie /speciality store as well as a café. (Tel: 01 661 8899).