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The Club Brasserie

This well-located Cork restaurants a second venture for restaurateurs Harold Lynch and Beth Haughton - well known for their successful Citrus Restaurant in Douglas.

It's in a new building on a pedestrianised riverside site and, beyond the modern glass-fronted exterior, lies a stylish high-ceilinged interior, with aged parquet floor, chandeliers and wall-bracket lamps. Even early in the week it has a good buzz and, with well-spaced white clothed tables and a mixture of comfortable chairs and banquettes - and a friendly, welcoming atmosphere - it's a pleasantly atmospheric place to be.

Harold is known for his commitment to quality ingredients, sourced locally where possible - and for cooking unfussy food with style. Menus offer a zesty take on a range of modern classics and many dishes are well-suited to appearing under various guises as different times of day.

Lunch menus offer a combination of gourmet sandwiches (tartine of gravadlax and lamb burger with coriander, cumin & mint yogurt, for example); simple seafood like salmon & potato cakes or fish & chips with chunky fries & mint pea puréee; classic salads (Caesar; seared beef; baked goats cheese); homely mains (cottage pie, chicken curry, sirloin steak) and classic desserts.

Evening brings a great value pre-theatre menu with a choice of three starters and mains (€20.50) and an appealing dinner à la carte which offers some smarter versions of lunch dishes and a lot else beside - starters like crab crème brulée; combo salads (available as starter or main) like Greek lamb (chargrilled lamb with feta, black olives, cucumber & red onions, with mint dressing); and serious mains like roasted pork belly with crackling and cider & rosemary cream.

Desserts are suitably sinful and some, including old favourites like lemon meringue pie with passion fruit, are also on the lunch menu.

An interesting wine list offers good quality with value - including a fair choice of half bottles.

All round an interesting choice of food and in attractive, comfortable surroundings and with good service makes for a pleasing dining experience.

Seats 85; B 8-11am. L Mon-Sat 12-3pm, D Mon-Sun 5-10pm (Sun to 9pm). Pre-theatre set D 5-6.45pm, €20.50; house wine €19.50. Underground car park (shared with Clarion Hotel). Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser

Directions:

Beside River Lee, front of next block to east of Clarion Hotel.