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Dillon's

A magnificent ruined abbey presides over the pretty West Cork seaside village of Timoleague - a place with a long history as a culinary punctuation mark for travellers. In the ’90s, Dillon’s traditional shopfront on the main street was a welcome sight for anyone needing a good food stop when heading west from Cork and, although they didn’t do daytime food for some years, it has always been something of an oasis in this area.

Fast forward to spring 2009 and, with new owners John and Julie Finn at the helm, all is as it should be as this lovely restaurant is now open during the day once again.

Famously retaining the atmosphere of the old bar and shop that it once was, the worn tiled floor is still in place, the antique wooden bar top is gleaming, wine now fills the original shelving behind it and the period fireplace and mantelpiece houses a seasonal display of flowers and vegetables, and a blackboard on which specials are scrawled.

It’s the couple’s first venture together in Julie’s hometown and has been very well received by locals and visitors alike. There’s an intimacy that adds to the homely atmosphere when the place is full but, although relatively small, tables aren’t too crowded. Outside, a pretty walled courtyard has a few garden tables for al fresco dining on good days, set amid a riot of colourful potted plants, and fragrant herb beds.

Menus are based on local seasonal produce, which John cooks with care and respect – and the couple proudly shout their suppliers on the menu, using local butcher John Hurley in Timoleague for meat, for example, whilst fresh fish and shellfish is supplied by Baltimore fishmonger Alan Hassett and Barry O’Donovan from nearby Courtmacsherry.

The offering changes through the day - house pastries come with morning coffee, while lunchtime callers will find light snacks including a soup of the day with John’s homemade brown bread, and perhaps an open sandwich of local Ummera smoked salmon and fresh crab mayo with organic local salad leaves.

More substantial bites could include smoked loin of Irish bacon with champ, wholegrain mustard & parsley sauce, or medallions of monkfish in crispy beer batter served, in summer, with crushed garden peas, roast potatoes and tartare sauce.

At night the restaurant is very welcoming, with candles and low lights seen through the large windows, and everything moves up a gear for dinner when tables are laid with linen cloths and napkins, fresh flowers and candles.

The dinner menu offers tempting starters like Ardsallagh goat’s cheese & wild mushroom strudel with roast garlic & shallot cream, and confit of Skeaghanore duck, from nearby Ballydehob, with red wine and mixed bean compôte.

Typical mains feature lamb (roast rack of with fondant potato and rosemary port wine jus, perhaps) venison (roast saddle served, in early autumn, with parsnip purée, poached pear & red wine), or superbly cooked fish, such as fillets of John Dory and brill, which might be served with roast sweet potato, yellow cherry tomato and avocado salsa. Gluten free diets are catered for and there’s always a seasonal vegetarian option.

A good selection of home made desserts is offered at both lunch and dinner, and portions are really generous. Extra vegetables, such as gratin potatoes and oven roast mixed vegetables, come with the mains – so the advice is to make sure you bring a really good appetite.

Sunday lunch features an à la carte choice of starters and mains, including the traditional favourites - roast sirloin of Irish beef, roast leg of lamb - and a couple of fish dishes according to availability. The wine choice is quite extensive for the size and location of establishment - includes a good half bottle selection, Prosecco and dessert wine by the glass, and an LBV port.

Finish with Italian Illy coffee or Barry’s tea from Cork, or one of the choice of herb teas offered.

The style is simple and uncheffy and, although the prices might at first seem rather high for the location, the quality of ingredients, good cooking, knowledgeable service and generous servings all add up to good value.

Seats 30 (+ outdoors, 25); children welcome before 8pm. Morning coffee Wed-Sat 11-12.30; L & D Wed-Sun 12.30-2.30 & 6-9.30 (to 8.30pm Sun). House wine €21.50. Closed Mon & Tue; mid Jan - mid Feb. Laser, Visa.

Directions:

On main street of village. On N71