A magnificent ruined abbey presides over the pretty West Cork seaside village of Timoleague - a place with a long history as a culinary punctuation mark for travellers.
In the ’90s, Dillon’s traditional shopfront on the main street was a welcome sight for anyone needing a good food stop when heading west from Cork and, although they didn’t do daytime food for some years, it has always been something of an oasis in this area. Since John and Julie Finn took over in 2009, however, all has been as it should be as this delightful restaurant opens during the day once again.
Famously retaining the atmosphere of the old bar and shop that it once was, the worn tiled floor is still in place, the antique wooden bar top is gleaming; wine now fills the original shelving behind it, while the period fireplace and mantelpiece houses a seasonal display of flowers and vegetables, and a blackboard on which specials are scrawled.
This is Julie’s home town and the couple’s first venture together has been very well received by locals and visitors alike. There’s an intimacy that adds to the homely atmosphere when the place is full but, although relatively small, tables aren’t too crowded. Outside, a pretty walled courtyard has a few garden tables for al fresco dining on good days, set amid a riot of colourful potted plants, and fragrant herb beds.
Menus are based on local seasonal produce, which John cooks with care and respect – and the couple proudly credit their suppliers on the menu, using local butcher John Hurley in Timoleague for meat, for example, whilst fish and shellfish is supplied by a range of specialists: fresh fish comes mainly from Baltimore fishmonger Alan Hassett, while Barry O’Donovan from nearby Courtmacsherry supplies monkfish and prawns, and the lobster and crab are supplied by local fisherman Dennis Fleming. And, for smoked fish (and other products), who else but Anthony Cresswell of the famed Ummera Smokehouse just up the road.
The offering changes through the day - house pastries come with morning coffee, while lunchtime callers will find light snacks including a soup of the day with John’s homemade brown bread, and perhaps an open sandwich of Ummera smoked salmon and fresh crab mayo with organic local salad leaves.
More substantial bites could include John Hurley’s corned beef & cabbage with creamed potato & parsley sauce, or grilled organic Bantry salmon with creamed potato, baby spinach and lemon & caper butter...
At night the restaurant is very welcoming, with candles and low lights seen through the large windows, and everything moves up a gear for dinner when tables are laid with linen cloths and napkins, fresh flowers and candles.
The dinner menu offers plenty of choice (gluten free diets are catered for and there’s always a seasonal vegetarian option) but there’s a slight bias towards seafood - and John’s fish cookery is a particular strength.
You’ll find tempting starters like Ardsallagh goat’s cheese & herb fritters with caramelised red onion marmalade & basil pesto sitting easily alongside steamed local mussels with coconut, lemongrass & parsley cream or an organic salmon platter. Typical mains feature lamb from local farmer Colin Bateman (roast rack with fondant potato and rosemary port wine jus, perhaps) and superbly cooked fish, such as fillets of John Dory, which might be served with baby leeks, roast pepper and lime & dill salsa and pan-fried scallops with glazed spring onions & soy, ginger, lime& parsley dressing.
Extra vegetables, such as gratin potatoes and oven roast mixed vegetables, come with the mains – so the advice is to make sure you bring a really good appetite, especially as a lovely selection of home made desserts is offered at both lunch and dinner, and portions are really generous.
Sunday lunch features an à la carte choice of starters and mains, including the traditional favourites - roast sirloin of Irish beef, roast leg of lamb - and a couple of fish dishes according to availability. The wine choice is quite extensive for the size and location of establishment - and includes a good half bottle selection, Prosecco and dessert wine by the glass, and an LBV port.
Finish with Italian Illy coffee or Barry’s tea from Cork, or one of the choice of herb teas offered.
The style is simple and uncheffy and, although the prices might at first seem rather high for the location, the quality of ingredients, good cooking, knowledgeable service and generous servings all add up to good value.
Seats 30 (+ outdoors, 25); Morning coffee Wed-Sat 11-12.30; L & D Wed-Sun 12.30-2.30 & 6-9.30 (to 8.30pm Sun). House wine €21.50. Children welcome before 8pm. Closed Mon & Tue; mid Jan - mid Feb. Laser, Visa.
