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Fallon & Byrne

This chic, contemporary French restaurant could easily be missed given its location above their ground floor speciality grocery and food market (which simply begs you to browse). But once up the flight of stairs or lift, professionalism prevails as diners are swiftly greeted at the door and escorted to their table.

Except for large flower arrangements displayed against the rear wall, decoration is minimal - high ceilings, white walls, no paintings but, oddly, it doesn't feel stark, but has that special French bistro ambience. Two islands of comfortable leather seating dominate the central area, surrounded by simply laid darkwood tables and chairs.

There's a definite buzz to this bright and airy restaurant and a bar along one end provides a reception area where you can have a drink (if you can find a free stool) while waiting for your table - an agreeable interlude, as you watch the attentive staff at work. At your table, breads, butter and water are presented, along with appealing menus offering a refreshingly simple and well balanced choice.

Authentic French bistro cooking is what's on offer here: a deliciously sweet French onion soup, for example, or seared foie gras with cinnamon brioche, or summer truffle brulée to start, followed by main courses with an equally French tone such as a lean and succulent loin of rabbit with fig & onion tart, morel mousse & cherry sauce.

Even the long and mysterious trek to the toilets on the top floor (not an unusual experience in this area) will not dent enthusiasm for this place, with its simple and well executed menu, great tasting food, professional staff and good value.

Wine Cellar @ Fallon & Byrne:

Surrounded by bottles on the walls, you are in the cellar - clever idea; popular with the post-work crowd, who love the atmosphere and affordable menu - light bites (cheeseboard, salads, patés, olives) are also offered, and you can choose from the bottles around you (corkage €10 or €1 on Mondays). Before leaving, spend a little time looking around what has become Dublin's favourite food store - you are unlikely to leave empty-handed.

The Exchequer Room upstairs is available for private hire seven days a week and has a capacity of 145 standing and 120 seated. It has a full bar open until 1am.

Fallon & Byrne Restaurant: Open L Mon-Sun, 12.30-3pm (to 4pm Sun); D Mon-Thurs, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat, 6-11pm; Sun, 6-9pm. Wine Cellar: Over 600 wines, 70 by the glass; corkage €10 or €1 on Mondays. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10pm (Thurs-Sat to 11pm), Sun & Bank hols, 12.30-9pm.

Directions:

Central Dublin, just off lower end of Grafton Street.