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Hô Sen

The shift of emphasis for Asian food may have moved over the river to the new 'Chinatown' in the Parnell Street area, but here in Temple Bar you'll find Ireland's first authentic Vietnamese restaurant.

At Hô Sen, which was our Ethnic Restaurant of the Year for 2006, the chefs are trained in Vietnam and take pride in bringing their cuisine to this pleasingly simple restaurant - and in introducing this lighter, clear-flavoured Asian cooking style at prices which are very reasonable by Dublin standards, and especially for Temple Bar where restaurants are often over-priced.

Dimmed lights and candles create an appealing atmosphere from the street and, with comfortably-spaced tables, gentle background jazz and chopsticks supplied as well as western cutlery, the scene is set for an interesting evening.

Vietnamese cooking has a reputation for being among the healthiest in the world and, although the familiar Asian styles feature - fresh herb flavours of coriander and lemongrass are dominant - there is a light touch to both the flavours and the cooking.

An extensive menu is shorter than it seems, as it includes many variations on a theme, and dishes are explained quite clearly. Specialities include Ka Kho Tho, a hotpot made with your choice of fish from the catch of the day, in which a generous amount of fish is cooked in a rich-flavoured 'pork marinade' with mushrooms, ginger root, lemongrass and a mixture of Vietnamese herbs and spices, including chilli.

Choosing an appropriate wine might be a little problematic - a riesling might be the answer, or perhaps beer or tea would be a better choice.

Although the presentation isn't fancy, everything is appetising, and service is lovely - pleasant, helpful and efficient.

And, as the cooking here is as exciting as the welcome is warm, this place is a little gem - and its popularity indicates that Dubliners appreciate quality and value when they find it.

Seats 120 (private room available seats 20). L Sun only 12.30-3; D Tue-Sun 5-11 (to 9pm Sun), Early Bird D €17 (5-7pm). Wines from €16.95. Closed Mon, 25 Dec. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

In Temple Bar, behind the Central Bank.