Please mention ireland-guide.com when enquiring.

Hô Sen

Ireland's first authentic Vietnamese restaurant, Hô Sen was our Ethnic Restaurant of the Year for 2006; the chefs are trained in Vietnam and take pride in bringing their cuisine to this pleasingly simple restaurant - and in introducing this lighter, clear-flavoured Asian cooking style at prices which are very reasonable by Dublin standards, and especially for Temple Bar where restaurants are often over-priced.

Dimmed lights and candles create an appealing atmosphere from the street and, with comfortably-spaced tables, gentle background jazz and chopsticks supplied as well as western cutlery, the scene is set for an interesting evening.

Vietnamese cooking has a reputation for being among the healthiest in the world and, although the familiar Asian styles feature - fresh herb flavours of coriander and lemongrass are dominant, and there is a light touch to both the flavours and the cooking. An extensive menu is shorter than it seems, as it includes many variations on a theme, and dishes are explained quite clearly.

Specialities include Cá Kho Tô, a hotpot made with your choice of fish from the catch of the day, in which a generous amount of fish is cooked in a rich-flavoured 'pork marinade' with mushrooms, ginger root, lemongrass and a mixture of Vietnamese herbs and spices, including chilli.

Choosing an appropriate wine might be a little problematic - perhaps beer or tea would be a better choice. Although the presentation isn't fancy, everything is appetising, and service is lovely - pleasant, helpful and efficient.

And, as the cooking here is as exciting as the welcome is warm, this place is a little gem - and its growing popularity is a reassuring sign that Dubliners appreciate quality and value when they find it.

Seats 120 (private room available seats 20). L Sun only 12.30-3; D Tue-Sun 5-11 (to 9pm Sun), Early Bird D €17 (5-7pm). Wines from €16.95. Closed Mon, 25 Dec. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

In Temple Bar, behind the Central Bank.