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Itsa4

This smart contemporary place has a 'New York Diner' feel, appropriate given the American connections of Domini and Peaches Kemp, the talented and hard-working sisters who are already well known for the 'Itsa Bagel' cafés - but this is a fully-fledged restaurant and not an extension of the bagel concept.

This Dublin restaurants quality ingredient-led menus have a strong emphasis on provenance and no obvious distinction between starters and main courses at lunchtime; you might start, for example, with a platter of Terry Butterly's excellent pale smoked salmon, served in a portion generous enough to serve two easily, or perhaps a portion of potato skins with cheddar, dry-cured bacon and a sour cream dip as another nibbling option to share.

The daily pasta dishes are invariably excellent and specialities include superb dry-aged rib-eye beef, which is served with a gorgeously rich béarnaise sauce and great vegetables (from Gold River Farm, in Co Wicklow); many say that the house 'organic' chips (which are unpeeled) have 'more flavour but less crispness' than regular chips - an odd response as, given a suitable variety, organic chips will be just as crisp as any others.

Excellent desserts include gorgeous home-made ice creams and sorbets, and matured Sheridans cheese is served simply on a wooden platter with warm biscuits and grapes.

Java Republic organic Fairtrade coffees are good (and served with excellent breakfasts too - try the eggs Benedict).

Service is friendly and efficient, and there's an interesting well-priced wine list which includes unusual bottles from specialist suppliers.

Itsa 4 : Seats 45 (outdoors, 10); toilets wheelchair accessible; air conditioning; free broadband wi/fi; children welcome before 9pm (high chair, children's menu, baby changing facilities); L & D Tue-Sat, 12-2 and 6-9 (to 10pm Fri/Sat); Sun Brunch 12-4pm, D 4-8pm; Junior Bites (under 12s) €10-12; value menu all evening Tue-Fri & 6-7pm Sat - 2 courses €20 or €25 with wine; house wine €17. Closed Mon (except Bank Hols); 25-26 Dec, Good Fri. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

On Sandymount Green