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Ivory Tower

Seamus O'Connell, one of Ireland's most original culinary talents, runs this unusual restaurant upstairs in an early Victorian commercial building; the entrance to the dowdy building is uninspiring but as you arrive in the high-ceilinged room with its slightly faded decor, eclectic ornaments and modern paintings, you will receive a warm and friendly welcome.

Guests are generally won over at this point, impressed by the efficient service and outstanding food and cooking.

Recently, however – at least for the time being – Seamus has taken his creative genius to Dublin to team up with one of the capital’s best-known restaurateurs and publicans, Jay Bourke, to open Shebeen Chic (see entry), a sassy eatery with unconventional décor and unconventional food.

Meanwhile, he has left a team experienced in his ways in charge at the Ivory Tower and, at the time of going to press, it is really a question of watch this space – the creativity associated with this restaurant genuinely is a one-off, and developments will be followed here on www.ireland-guide.com.

Seats 35; not suitable for children under 5; private room available. D Wed-Sat, 6.30-9.15 (Tue is Sushi Night). 5-course D about €60; Surprise Menu about €75. House wine from about €18. SC discretionary. Closed Mon-Wed. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Corner of Princes/Oliver Plunkett street.