Although the number of French restaurants/bistros in Dublin has grown a lot of late, Les Frères Jacques - which opened beside the Olympia Theatre in 1986, well before the development of Temple Bar made the area fashionable - has retained its special place as one of the very few offering genuine French fine dining.
Most of this Dublin restaurants staff are French, the atmosphere is French - and the cooking is classic French. But best of all, they do it with a light touch that Irish diners especially appreciate.
The decor is soothing - all the better to enjoy seasonal menus that are wide-ranging and well-balanced but - as expected when you notice the lobster tank on entering - there is a strong emphasis on fish and seafood; game also features in season, although there will always be prime meats and poultry, and vegetarians will also be offered imaginative options.
Lunch at Les Frères Jacques is a treat (and good value) but dinner is a feast.
The à la carte offers classics such as west coast oysters (native or rock) and grilled lobster, individually priced, and probably game in season.
Finish with cheeses (perhaps including some Irish ones) or a classic dessert like warm thin apple tart (baked to order), with cinnamon ice cream and crème anglaise.
The wine list, which naturally favours France, makes interesting reading - and reductions of as much as 50% per bottle are often offered on Mondays and Tuesday.
Although it has a reputation for being expensive - and the à la carte dinner menu may bear that out - there is also real value to be had: the early dinner menu, for example, and an express lunch with a glass of wine, at just €15.