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Les Gourmandises Restaurant

Just off South Mall, this little restaurant feels like an outpost of France - the menu at the entrance will draw you in, and you'll be glad you noticed it.

It's run by Patrick and Soizic Kiely - both formerly of Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud but, although that says a lot about the key standards, this is far more reminiscent of family-run restaurants in France.

There's nothing flash about the quiet style of this restaurant: a small reception area is cleverly arranged to make three compact seating areas with a bar, fresh flowers and stylish cushions; the welcome is cordial without being effusive, and the team under Soizic's guidance go about their business with quiet competence.

The long, narrow, high-ceilinged room, formerly a Turkish bath, is a restrained, modern white space, with comfortable subdued lighting and low key music.

The menu is not overlong, but changes daily to accommodate the day's market; there is usually a seafood platter, which varies and may contain 5 or so elements, each treated differently and with appropriate sauces/garnishes, arranged to please the eye as well as the palate.

Outstanding dishes may include a 'crab sandwich' starter, of spanking fresh crab with remoulade sauce, layered in three tiers with toasted brioche & fresh dill. Presentation is stylish, and great attention is given to the marriage of complementary flavours - a tiny pink lamb rack, for example, comes with rosemary and black olive tapenade - and careful seasoning.

To finish, there may be upbeat classic seasonal desserts and a good French & Irish cheese selection, and lovely coffee. The wine list is not long but very well chosen, with some real finds including the house wines.

Terrific food and good value: this is one of the hidden treasures you'd like to keep a secret lest it become too popular.

Children over 6 welcome. Seats 30. L Fri only (also all of the week before Christmas), 12-2. D Tue-Sat, 6-9.30. Early D, 2/3 course: about €27.50/31.50. Also á la carte. House wine about €22. Closed Sun, Mon; Mar, Sep. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

City centre - access to Cook Street from South Mall.