It's difficult not to like Locks. Despite its many incarnations, the canalside restaurant has traded under the same name for over 30 years, despite changes in ownership, decor and cooking styles along the way. One of the capital’s smartest and comfiest dining rooms, the waterside location and cosy décor make it a popular space in Portobello.
Dermot Staunton has returned as head chef, having worked hard to put neighbouring Delahunt on the map since 2015. Returning to his old stomping ground, he brings with him added experience in cooking solid, flavour-packed modern Irish dishes that leave an impression long after they’re eaten.
The ground floor room is flooded with light on two sides, it’s cream tongue-and-groove walls hanging with art that is for sale and changes regularly. Seating is a mix of banquettes and deep chairs, making it extra comfy for lingering over lunch or late night digestifs.
If lunch and dinner are a big deal at Locks, Sunday lunch has almost become the main attraction. The popular brasserie is a favourite for dates and occasion dining, but come Sunday, the lovely light-filled dining room can be found full of chefs, restaurateurs and industry types tucking into generous plates of top outstanding food. Dermot teases every ounce of flavour from quality ingredients, and his plating and presentation are pretty as a picture.
Perhaps he’ll pair Kerry lamb with suet pudding, girolles and carrots or hake with a delicate fricassee of summer vegetables, crab butter and shellfish sauce. Menus are exciting and original, with each dish singing with seasonality and freshness. Sides like broccoli with hazelnuts and new potatoes with smoked butter and chives show a commitment to innovation and excellence.
Upstairs are two beautiful private dining rooms and really lovely toilets (that are, sadly, not wheelchair accessible.)
There’s an excellent drinks offering here, with a small bar serving beer by the tap, a full range of spirits and a really well thought out wine list.
Thoughtful details, like good homemade bread with smoked trout and dulse butter, fresh flowers and cool tunes all add to the appeal of this hip spot that’s enjoying a well deserved moment in the spotlight again.
