For more than 25 years there’s been a restaurant at 1 Windsor Terrace. The first Locks lasted over 20 years, the second less than two, opening and closing as the recession took hold on diners’ wallets, with the third, Locks Brasserie, opening at the end of 2010.
This Dublin restaurants canalside setting and corner location make this one of the nicest dining rooms in the city, and the chic interior looks as elegant and pristine as ever.
Toffee and ochre seats, generous tables (bare topped but graced by woven place mats, large glasses and linen napkins), whitewashed tongue and groove walls and dark parquet create an ambience that’s fashionable, relaxed and comfortable – and what’s not to like about a gorgeous room with both the cosiness of an open fire and views of swans parading on the canal.
The team behind this brasserie are Sebastien Masi and Kirsten Batt, whose excellent Pearl Brasserie is one of Dublin’s finest restaurants. Installing Rory Carville (ex Four Seasons and L'Ecrivain) in the kitchen and Pearl stalwart Thomas Pinoncely as manager means this restaurant was in good hands from the outset.
Menus are admirably concise and Rory’s moreish cooking reflects Sebastien’s fastidious attention to detail: classic French dishes are given modern treatment, resulting in luxe brasserie dining.
A signature starter of pan fried duck foie gras with beet purée, pressed apple cake, and brioche is both memorable and stunningly good. Rare pork belly may be paired with carrot purée, tortellini and sauerkraut, while pan fried king scallops might be accompanied by black truffle risotto, parmesan foam and black pudding. Locks’ house potato dish, Gratin Dauphinois, is especially wonderful.
Front of house, a mainly French team deliver knowledgeable, friendly and professional service. The wine list offers some lovely choices by the glass and the cellar is stocked with a wide selection of predominantly French bottles, with a wine of the month adding interest and value.
A lunch and early bird menu offer good value at €22, and while the bill for à la carte dining can add up you can expect a great meal in this gorgeous brasserie.
Locks Brasserie : Seats 70 (private rooms, 12/24). Open D Mon-Wed from 5pm; Thu-Sun from 12.30-late. Value L & early D €22; also à la carte L&D; house wine from €24. Dining room wheelchair accessible (but not toilets); children welcome; reservations recommended. Closed L Mon-Wed, Christmas week. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
.jpg "Locks Brasserie - Dublin 8 Ireland")
.jpg "Locks Brasserie - Dublin 8 Ireland")
.jpg "Locks Brasserie - Dublin 8 Ireland")
.jpg "Locks Brasserie - Dublin 8 Ireland")
.jpg "Locks Brasserie - Dublin 8 Ireland")
.jpg "Locks Brasserie - Dublin 8 Ireland")
