Anyone visiting Sligo should make a point of calling into the magnificently traditional Lyons Department Store, in business since 1835 and still with its original shopfront. It’s a joy to find a quirky owner-run store these days and, on the first floor, they have a café-restaurant serving fresh and wholesome locally sourced food – hugely popular with locals, but it could be Sligo’s best kept secret for visitors.
'Possibly the oldest café in Sligo town', Lyons Café opened in 1926 and has changed little since: casement window, cream panelling, wooden floor, bentwood chairs... There will be a couple of ladies putting the world to rights at a window table, as they have probably been doing for the last 30 years.
There's animated chatter and a friendly feel – unlike so many smart modern places that could be anywhere, in Lyons you really feel you are in Sligo.
However, while retaining the best of older ways – especially tradional bredakfast fare, brilliant salads and good scones and treats for the sweet toothed – those with a more contemporary palate have plentty of treats in store. The café is operated independently of the store and, since 2002, it’s been run by Gary Stafford, a talented and well-travelled chef who takes the best of seasonal local produce and with a little help from some more exotic ingredients, transforms it into the colourful and fresh-flavoured food that has loyal fans from far and wide beating a path to the door. So, alongside the best of Irish comfort food – Lyons Café Fish Pie, slow braised belly of pork – you’ll find great salads and zesty little hot numbers like Moroccan lamb burgers with toasted pine nuts and feta cheese; Indian sweet potato and broccoli; and red lentil curry and shredded beef kindo.
There’s a good selection of teas and coffees of course, sandwiches are made to order, and great home baking – including a variety of breads and scones, and a wide range of sweet treats to enjoy with a cuppa.
Enticing homemade desserts are another strong point, such as black cherry Bakewell, tangy lemon and lime tart, brownies... and the possibility of lashings of cream or a scoop of ice cream alongside.
Or pop into Bakeshop (071 913 8006), their artisan French bakery on the ground floor of the department store, where they sell freshly baked artisan breads, pastries, grab and go sandwiches, coffee and Lyons Café take-home dinners. Simply gorgeous.
Gary Stafford has also published several cookbooks, beginning with Lyons Café, The Recipes, which was written in celebration of his ten-year anniversary here in 2012, and most recently a centenary collection in 2026.
