Please mention ireland-guide.com when enquiring.

Poulot's Restaurant

Lorna Jean and Jean Michel Poulot's restaurant is tucked away down a laneway and easy to miss.

The L-shaped dining-room overlooks a pretty courtyard garden, floodlit at night, and the decor is simple - a warm neutral scheme opens the area up and creates a sense of space. Jean Michel brought with him a reputation for his time at Halo at the Morrison and, before that, at a number of other important kitchens including Ballylickey Manor in County Cork, where Lorna Jean was also working at the time.

Large menus give detailed descriptions of a range of luxurious dishes, including French classics like seared duck foie gras (served with brioche and a fig compôte) and more unusual specialities such as a fennel and Parmesan risotto with yellow fin tuna and wasabi cream; among the main course specialities you may find a very refined loin of venison - little cylinders of tender, lean meat, served with celeriac cream, wild mushrooms and a game jus flavoured with juniper and black pepper.

Classic desserts include an excellent crème brulée, and Valrhona chocolate fondant - served, perhaps, with a superb hazelnut ice cream.

Presentation on huge white plates is dramatic and, like the oversized menus, acts as a reminder that this is definitely fine dining, and not for those days when you're in the mood for something simple.

The atmosphere, however, is relaxed, helped by service which has retained an old-style professionalism.

An extensive wine list is Lorna Jean's special interest and, although it naturally leans towards France, it offers a careful selection from all over the world.

* Cookery and wine courses available, details from the restaurant.

Seats 70; toilets wheelchair accessible; children welcome; air conditioning. Open Mon-Sat, L12-3, D 7-10.30. Value D €29, 6-7.30pm. Closed Sun, Mon; Bank Hols. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

From city, first left after Victoria Avenue; to city, right turn opposite Ulster Bank in Donnybrook.