Dating back to 1728, this characterful spot is one of the oldest pubs in Dublin after The Brazen Head and The Norseman. Formerly The Dunleary Inn, it once served as a lodging house for those preparing to depart on the boat for England and has long been a popular place to drink, and eat, in this seaside town.
In October 2012 a new owner, Ashley Sheridan, set out to take things up a notch or two. Respectful of its historic character, the interior was renovated - preserving the original mahogany counter, along with its six long pump handles and brass whiskey cabinet, and with exposed red brick giving background warmth to gleaming display cabinets and comfortable banquette seating.
From the moment you step up to the bar and take in vast array of craft beers on display, you know you’re in for a treat. Among the 40 plus bottles you’ll find a selection of stellar Irish offerings, including O’Hara’s, Howling Gale, Knockmealdown Porter, Dark Arts Porter - and dozens more from all over the world, plus a good range on draught. Temptingly they offer a tasting tray of three beers for €5.
And the menu continues in the same vein, with suppliers credited including Kettyle Meats, Odaois Foods, Ocean Marine and Doyles Vegetables, and stand-out produce name-checked, including Arbutus sourdough rye bread (made by Declan Ryan in Cork, one of Ireland’s premier bakers) and Boulabane Farm salted caramel ice-cream from Tipperary.
To start, a sharing plate of chunky, salty fried calamari served with a piquant tomato salsa and rocket leaves (c. €7.90) could soon have you sweeping the plate with your fingers to gather up the last golden crumbs… To follow, dishes like roast cod, courgettes, vine-roasted tomatoes, fondant potato and fresh pea velouté (c.€15.90) and the Purty burger are bursting with flavour and presented with flair.
If you can judge a kitchen by its burger, The Purty Kitchen is about as good as it gets: sandwiched between two floury-soft pieces of Waterford blaa you get Kettyle’s dry-aged Irish beef topped with Fivemiletown Creamery cheese and served with a portion of craft ale battered onion rings and skin-on rooster chips on the side (c. €14.90).
Generous and juicy, it’s nothing short of burger heaven - although it could soon be challenged in your affections by a dessert of O’Hara’s stout chocolate brownie served with salted caramel ice-cream (€6.75) – a decadently gooey, wonderfully sweet/salty finish.
During the week (Monday–Thursday) they operate a BYOB policy at The Purty Kitchen. This means you can enjoy a really top quality meal for two for less than €50, which is seriously good value for the quality of the food.