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The Ross Hotel

Lovers of contemporary style will adore the Treacy family's impressive new boutique hotel, which replaces their original and much-loved property, which was a sort of 'Queen Mother' of the hotel world; all that now remains is the lovely bow-windowed frontage, which still gives a hint of the warmth that lay behind.

Today an assertively design-led experience begins in a highly theatrical reception area, where bemused visitors in trainers perch on leather seats in the electric-green light of a standard lamp and wonder at it all. Beyond the lobby things calm down but it prepares the first-time guest for a funky stay.

Accommodation, in the thirty rooms and five suites, is exceptionally comfortably appointed as would be expected, but much quieter in tone, the style and many of the details will be familiar to guests who know the Treacys' Killarney Park Hotel (see entry), just across the road; some spacious rooms at the front look across to the waiting jarveys with their jaunting cars and horses and two bay-windowed suites at the top have views across the town to the National Park but most rooms are notable for comfort rather than outlook.

Public areas include the aptly-named and stylish Lane Café Bar; with glass all along one wall and funky furnishings, it's the coolest place in Killarney to meet for cocktails and they serve very good bar food and tapas all day.

Broadband wi/fi, secretarial services. Children welcome (under 4s free in parents' room, cot available free of charge);

Rooms 30 ( 5 suites, 1 for disabled, all no smoking); B&B €110 pps; Lift; Closed 24-26 Dec.

Cellar One:

Undoubtedly the jewel in this stylish hotel's crown, this stunningly theatrical restaurant is on two levels - a 20-seater mezzanine and a 4-seater lower dining room and, although a lift is also available, the grand entrance down a curving glass and steel staircase is the stuff that dreams are made of.

Everything about it is larger than life, including the brilliant lime green and shocking pink furnishings (tempered by sobre greys and browns of the main stage set); but there is definitely method to this mad creativity as it is not only a delightful place to eat but - except that the head waiter's desk is not handy to arriving guests, which can cause a small delay on arrival it's an exceptionally well-designed restaurant from the working angle.

Head chef Ian McMonagle has responsibility for all food operations in the hotel, and his á la carte menus in Cellar One are smart and modern, with strong world influences but also a few classics and plenty of named local ingredients: Cromane mussels, Skeaghanore duck, St Tola goat's cheese all feature, for example, and a starter plate of charcuterie is served with home-made chutney, and includes Coolea cheese as well as five cured meats; a signature main course is Tequila prawn & firecracker rice (two rices flavoured with chilli and vanilla) and Tequila butter but you could also choose the house variation of an old favourite, such as char-grilled fillet of Kerry beef with sautéed wild mushrooms, baby onions & red wine jus.

And then you could finish in high retro style with an individual Baked Alaska.

The stunning setting and great cooking is backed up by friendly, professional staff and both food and wine are good value. A great night out in fact.

Seats 60 (private room, 60); air conditioning; children welcome (high chair); D served daily, 6.30-9.30pm; á la carte; house wine €28. *Bar food also available daily, 12.30-8pm. Visa.

Directions:

Situated in the town centre on Kenmare Place