After a quiet off-season drink a few doors along at Joe May's, there can be no greater pleasure in north Dublin than to slip into 'Stoops' for some of Andy Davies' mainly seafood cooking.
'Fresh, simple and wholesome' is how he describes his food, and who could want any more than that? If it's busy you may have to wait at the little bar - where you can opt to eat if you like, or have a look at the menu while waiting for a table (they seem to turn over fairly fast).
This county Dublin restaurants surroundings are simple - chunky wooden tables, closely packed - and the menu is not elaborate but there is plenty to choose from, and there are blackboard specials every day too; what could be more delightful than starters of dressed crab, or moules marinière - or perhaps a classic fresh prawn Marie Rose, as Dublin Bay prawns (langoustines) are landed in Skerries and a speciality; like the crab claws, they are offered as starters or main courses, in irresistible garlic butter.
Main course favourites include daily specials such as baked Clare Island salmon, seared king scallops and pan fried ray wing; also an excellent version of fish and chips - named 'fresh cod (or haddock) fritté' here, a light beer batter is used and, although french fries are most obvious choice, there are actually four potato styles to choose from if chips are not your thing.
There's a shortish but appropriate wine list to accompany.
You don't have to eat seafood here - there are other choices like Asian spiced warm chicken salad, or pasta dishes or even fillet steak medallions - but it would be a pity to miss it.
Super fresh and deliciously simple, it's a treat.
Seats 50 (outdoor seating, 20). Food served all day June-Aug, 12-9.30pm. Otherwise L & D daily: L 12-3, D 5.30-9.30 (Fri/Sat to 10pm); Sun D 4-8pm. House wine €19. Air conditioning; no reservations. Children welcome (high chair, children's menu, baby changing facilities). Toilets wheelchair accessible. Closed 25 Dec & Good Fri. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
