On a quiet street at the west end of Enniskillen town you'll find one of the brightest jewels in Fermanagh's culinary crown.
Glen and Zara Wheeler opened 28 Darling Street in 2018, both having worked at Neven Maguire’s MacNean House in nearby Blacklion for 13 years – Glen latterly as head chef and Zara as front of house. Here they have created a restaurant that offers delicious seasonally driven cooking in a warm atmosphere, combining slick, beautifully presented food with good old fashioned rural hospitality.
The exterior is a smartly maintained traditional shop front - so the interior may come as a surprise. 28 Darling Street used to be a jazz bar and it shows in the décor - a large chandelier dominates the bar area and the walls are covered with black and silver chintzy wallpaper...There is no reception area, but there's a table with fresh flowers where you'll be greeted warmly and taken to your table in a long well-lit dining room that is comfortably set up with a mixture of tables, some with banquettes. White linen tablecloths and napkins set the fine dining tone and tableware is bang on trend, with a mixture of textured white and stone effect plates and stylish glasses.
Although it's initially their well earned reputation for outstanding food that brings people to 28 Darling Street, pitch perfect service is the equally important USP that keeps them coming back. An à la carte or a set tasting menu is offered by well versed staff, who know all the details of the local provenance that is proudly name checked on the menu – Fermanagh lamb, Thornhill duck from neighhbouring Co Cavan, meat from the famed O’Doherty’s butchers in the town, Tyrone goat cheese and vegetables, including tomatoes, from a local grower.
The cooking is excellent, in a modern classic style. As well as his years of experience with Neven Maguire - which shows in the presentation, as well as the flavours - Glen has been a Great British Menu competitor and some of the dishes he cooked are likely to feature, including a brioche stuffed chicken main course and a grilled meringue dessert.
Other stand out dishes to look out for include a pea and mint risotto with smoked Thornhill duck, black garlic purée and nasturtium leaves. Creamy, with a perfect al dente bite and superb flavours, risotto fans will love this perfectly executed dish. The mint is not overbearing and works surprisingly well with the delicately smoked duck, while the black garlic adds a zip of umami and the nasturtium provides a touch of heat.
And a perfectly cooked rump of Fermanagh lamb with well rendered, crispy fat and tender meat makes for a memorable main course for meat lovers; designed as a trio (including a mini pasty with very good pastry) it's full flavoured, fork tender and melting, with a rich sauce of cooking liquor completing the plate.
To accompany, a concise but well constructed and varied wine list is sourced from the excellent Jim Nicholson in Crossgar. It includes three sparkling wines (with Prosecco available by the glass) and nine white wines, with a delicious crisp and floral Albarino/Louiero blend from Portugal offered at a very affordable £6.50 a glass and, among the reds, Long Beach Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa at a bargain £5.50 a glass.
Finish with a sweet treat from a choice of three desserts, or with cheese - and be glad that you found this friendly, highly professional and very kindly priced restaurant.
