There is no shortage of excellent dining destinations in Kilkenny, but this recent arrival is a stunner.
A new fine dining experience by Keith and Carmel Boyle, previously of the highly regarded Restaurant Lady Anne @ Creamery House in Castlecomer, it was launched recently to coincide with the long-awaited opening of The Bridge House, the former Dower House of the Ormonde family on St John's Bridge.
Having been meticulously restored by the owners of the adjacent River Court Hotel following a fire in 2018, this historic building makes a magnificent addition to the hotel, with its twelve beautifully designed bedrooms, a sumptuous parlour overlooking Kilkenny Castle - and the original Dining Room with wall paintings by Jane Willoughby and double height windows framing the River Nore and the Castle, where Keith Boyle @ The Bridge House is now offering a 9-Course Degustation Dinner Menu (and, at weekends, a shorter version for lunch) 'designed to tempt, enchant and surprise'.
Arriving up cut stone steps and through the original door on John Street gives a poignant sense of the building's history, setting the scene for what promises to be a very special occasion. The bar is in a new glass enclosed area where you can drink in views of the River Nore and Kilkenny Castle while enjoying an aperitif and a little bite of something delicious - a wonderfully light aged Parmesan and Comté cheese gougère perhaps...
In the intimate restaurant, round tables covered to the floor with white linen are simply set with rolled napkins, water glasses and candles, with cutlery added for each course. Everything is thoughtfully considered, down to the provision of a small foot stool for ladies' handbags. But food quickly becomes the main focus as each dish is introduced by Hostess Carmel Boyle, or Chef Keith Boyle himself. Only a (very creative) set tasting menu is available and the cooking skills and attention to detail are impressive. Each course has several elements and, while some dishes are cheffy, others delight with their simplicity. All are beautifully presented with a sense of theatre on fine Limoges porcelain.
Led by Carmel, smartly dressed waiting staff are very well informed about both food and wine; no producers or suppliers are listed - and some ingredients that may seem surprising are used, such as avocado - but they are mentioned as each course is served. The wine list, compiled by Carmel Boyle, matches Keith Boyle's cooking with excellent wine pairings. Ranging from about €48/50 to very high end, the list is not cheap but it has extensive tasting notes and is still a work in progress.
Keith Boyle @ The Bridge House has brought something new to the Marble City and, while it is expensive for Kilkenny, it is an outstanding experience by any standards - and many will be wishing it well.
