This is one of the famous old restaurants of Ireland and, since Anne and Nick Foley retired, it is clearly thriving under the management of their son John. It consists of two attractive stone-faced townhouses - one a traditional bar with a piano and some dining tables, where arriving guests can linger over a drink and place their orders, the other the main dining area.
With timber flooring, velvet covered furniture (a mottled grey-blue, it changes with the light and is very comfortable), heavily timbered ceiling, wine bottles lining a high shelf around the walls - and piano playing drifting on some evenings through from the bar - the dining room has great atmosphere and it's well suited to the retro cooking style.
Nick’s classic French cooking with an Irish accent its what earned the restaurant a special reputation for his way with local seafood and - although there are always other choices, notably prime Kerry beef and lamb - it is for classic seafood dishes (Mornay and Thermidor sauces feature on the menu) that the name is synonymous throughout Ireland.
House cultivated oysters from the family farm are a speciality, and if you want to see what that much-maligned item ‘the speciality seafood plate’ is like at its best, make the journey to Nick’s. It’s unbeatable Irish seafood, and very good value.
Although it would be a shame to come here without enjoying such exceptional seafood, vegetarians aren’t forgotten either.
Desserts are all home-made and changed weekly and there’s a good local (O’Connor’s) cheeseboard too.
An extensive wine list, from all areas, hand-picked by Nick and with many bottles imported directly, includes interesting house wines and four half bottles (two red, two white), and there is also a short list of excellent craft beer, including a couple by Crafty Divils, the local brewery.
Bringing it all together, the service is outstanding at this old favourite - and the music and great atmosphere as beguiling as ever.
*Sol y Sombra (see entry), in a converted church just around the corner, is a sister restaurant run by Cliodhna Foley.
