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Casual dining may still be the big story but fine dining is far from dead - and, regardless of style, the restaurants that are performing best are those led by people like our long established Chef of the Year, who are grounded in classical cooking.
In a town where new restaurants are stealing the limelight every month it’s reassuring to know that some of the long-established gems - like this one, almost hidden from view and beloved by savvy diners for 16 years - are as delightful, and as relevant, as the day they first opened.
Luxurious, innovative and sophisticated, it has been known for consistently excellent food since opening in 2000. Everything this owner chef is serving up is top class and, despite being there for many years, he keeps his cooking fresh, on trend, yet very true to his classic roots.
Everything is perfectly seasoned, beautifully presented and a pure pleasure to eat. Quality ingredients, classic techniques and lovely Irish touches make his food a great showcase for Ireland. The full vegetarian menu offered is inspired and the cheese trolley is both traditional and stylish.
Furthermore, standards in general have never slipped at this lovely restaurant - staff are impeccably briefed and service is invariably first class.
But the real star is the Frenchman at the helm, whose sophisticated cooking is as exciting, beautiful and relevant as ever - and in many ways it's even better.