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Aldens Restaurant

A neat aubergine canopy highlights the discreetly distinctive public face of Jonathan Davis's fine contemporary restaurant, an indication of the genuine quality you will find here: Aldens was at the forefront of Belfast's first wave of chic, uncluttered modern restaurants when it opened in 1998 and, although the choice of location seemed unlikely at the time, it immediately attracted a strong business following and became a destination address for food lovers visiting Belfast, as well as a favourite with residents and, these days, its proximity to the government buildings at Stormont is a big plus.

Competition in the city centre has grown dramatically of late but Aldens serves its area extremely well and head chef Denise Hockey, who took over from the founding chef Cath Gradwell in 2006, is doing a great job in the kitchen and retaining the restaurant's position at the forefront of the Belfast dining scene.

Under Jonathan Davis's personal supervision, this has always been an especially hospitable restaurant, with comfortable seating and pleasing details - fresh flowers, choice of olives, newspapers and food guides to browse over a drink in the welcoming bar/reception area, and caring, knowledgable service throughout.

Opaque glass windows soften the light and give a sense of privacy, with strips of mirror adding reflections on painted walls, and tables are set up smartly with linen napkins, tapenade, olive oil and butter, along with several types of bread. The style is lively and admirably simple, allowing the quality of carefully sourced seasonal ingredients to speak for itself, and with special emphasis on fish and local produce.

The cooking is accomplished and executed with flair, with well-judged flavour combinations and giving good value is also a point of honour here, with several daily changing international menus offered, including an extremely reasonable midweek menu and great lunch specials.

Menus are not overlong yet offer plenty of choice, and include some luxurious dishes - seared foie gras is a speciality, served with mixed leaves and caramelised shallots, perhaps; updated classics, like chicken liver paté with hot toast & red onion marmalade and steamed mussels with white wine, parsley and garlic sit happily alongside prime fish and meats (roast hake, ribeye steak), and simpler everyday foods like twice-baked mushroom soufflé with truffle and herb sauce (one of several mainstream vegetarian choices), served with imaginative side dishes.

Consistency at a very high level over a decade is not an easy thing to achieve, yet Jonathan Davis's personal direction of a fine team safeguards Aldens' place at the top of Northern Ireland's dining scene.

A well selected, fairly priced and informative wine list includes a god range of house wines and half bottles.

*A range of Aldens gift items, including tapenade, red onion marmalade and Caesar salad dressing, is available.

Seats 70. Children welcome. No smoking area; air conditioning. L Mon-Fri,12-2.30; D Mon-Thu 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11; Set D from about £20 (Mon-Thu), á la carte. House wines from about £11.95; sc discretionary. Closed L Sat, all Sun, Public Holidays, 2 weeks July. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Switch.

Directions:

On the Upper Newtownards Road at junction with Sandown Road.