Fresh, bright, friendly and relaxed, Jonathan Davis's smart neighbourhood restaurant provides an antidote to all that is formal and stuffy.
Recently renovated, Aldens proudly announced “a new look with new ideas, new menus and new opening times”, yet some things won’t be changed: it remains a destination address for food lovers visiting Belfast, as well as a favourite with residents - and its proximity to the government buildings at Stormont is a big plus.
Despite recently spreading his wings to launch Aldens in the City (see entry) the ever present Mr Davis keeps his finger on the pulse and this continues to be an especially hospitable restaurant, with comfortable seating and pleasing details - fresh flowers, choice of olives, newspapers and food guides to browse over a drink in the welcoming bar/reception area, and warm service throughout.
The style at this Belfast restaurants lively and admirably simple, and rather more relaxed since the recent renovations, taking on a less formal brasserie feel.
After more than two years at the helm of this busy kitchen, head chef Denise Hockey’s policy is to allow quality fresh ingredients express themselves naturally through straightforward preparation, and giving good value is also a point of honour here, with several daily changing menus offered, including an extremely reasonable midweek menu and great lunch specials.
Quality coffees and freshly baked pastries are now served in the afternoon, and also evening charcuterie and mezze plates.
Menus include some luxurious dishes - roast squab pigeon with soft polenta and truffle jus perhaps; updated classics, like chicken liver paté with hot toast & red onion marmalade and steamed mussels with white wine, parsley and garlic sit happily alongside prime fish and meats (roast hake, ribeye steak), and simpler everyday foods like twice-baked spinach soufflé with parmesan cream (one of several mainstream vegetarian choices), served with imaginative side dishes.
Consistency at this level over a decade is not an easy thing to achieve and, although the cooking was less consistent than formerly on a recent visit, Jonathan Davis's personal direction of a fine team should safeguard Aldens' longterm place at the top of Northern Ireland's dining scene.
A well selected, fairly priced and informative wine list includes a good range of house wines and half bottles.
*A range of Aldens gift items, including tapenade, red onion marmalade and Caesar salad dressing, is available.
Seats 70. L Mon-Fri,12-2.30; D Mon-Thu 5.30-9.30, Fri & Sat 6-11; Set 2/3 course D £18/22 (Mon-Thu), á la carte. House wines from about £12.95; sc discretionary. Children welcome; air conditioning. Closed L Sat, all Sun, Public Holidays, 2 weeks July. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Switch.
