Previously a butchers shop, with its original 1930s' tiled floor, high ceiling and facade, Noel Delaney and Patricia van der Velde's wonderful delicatessen, wine shop and continental style café is quietly situated on a side road, so the unexpected sight of jaunty aluminium chairs and tables outside - and a glimpse of many wine bottles lining the walls behind the elegant shopfront - should gladden the hearts of first-time visitors sweeping around the corner from Griffith Avenue.
Oak fittings have been used throughout, including the wine displays, and the chic little marble-topped tables used for lighter bites suit the old shop well - in the extension behind, there are larger tables and space for groups to eat in comfort.
Now, where cuts of meat were once displayed, there's a wonderful selection of charcuterie and cheese from Ireland and the continent, with the choice of an Irish or Iberian plate offering a delicious selection of produce, all served with speciality breads.
This Dublin restaurants short blackboard menu of hot dishes and specials, plus a daily soup, a range of salads, gourmet sandwiches, wraps, hot panini, pastries and classic café desserts complement the charcuterie and cheese which have the gravitas to balance the collection of wines lining the walls - and, in addition to the wine list, which changes regularly, you can choose any bottle to have with your food at a very modest corkage charge.
There's also an extensive drinks menu, offering speciality coffees and teas, and some unusual beverages, like Lorina French lemonade.
A weekend breakfast menu offers all kinds of treats including smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, and a number of dishes uses various Hicks sausages - Hicks wine & garlic sausage, for example, served on ciabatta with tomato, smoked applewood cheddar & sweet pepper relish.
*Also at: Andersons Crêperie (01 830 5171), Carlingford Road, Drumcondra, Dublin 9, where the speciality is buckwheat pancakes, but they also offer charcuterie, cheeses etc.
**And Andersons at High Lanes Gallery in Drogheda, Co Louth.
Seats 45 (outside seating 18); Open Mon-Sat, 9-7 (to 8.30 Thu-Sat), Sun 10-7; last food orders half an hour before closing. 14 House Wines (€18-24) & 160 wines available from the wine shop at €6 corkage. No reservations, children welcome (childrens menu, high chair, baby changing facilities), toilets wheelchair accessible, free broadband wi/fi. Closed 1 week over Christmas, Good Fri & Easter Sun. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
