The traditional exterior of The Glenside pub belies the modern restaurant that’s nestling under its thatched roof. This separate business venture operates independently to the neighbourhood local, and is run by a friendly team who clearly love good food.
Comprising two adjoining rooms and an open kitchen, it’s a spacious restaurant that’s been designed with comfort in mind (although approached by along flight of stairs, so not accessible to all). Despite being well appointed with lovely feature wallpaper the colour scheme may not quite gel for us, and it would be nice to see a little art on the walls – but, that minor quibble aside, the food here is outstanding, with every dish cleverly conceived and perfectly executed.
The menu offers great variety, with fish, chicken, meat, and pasta, each dish highlighting the kitchen’s confidence and ability, as well as a respect for the seasons. A salad of poached pears with extra mature Cashel Blue served with rocket and candied walnuts is a triumph, all for a mere €4.
Humble mushrooms on toast become a moreish composition of sourdough smothered with mushroom duxelle and a braised flat cap layered with melting parmesan, while roast rump of lamb arrives perfectly pink with a textbook potato fondant, silky spiced turnip puree and sautéed spinach.
A short-ish wine list features a good choice of styles, with almost half available by the glass, and most bottles costing between €20 and €30.
The cooking is skilled and accomplished and the service is thoughtful, friendly and attentive.
The Arch Bistro is a real gem, offering top notch food at refreshingly affordable prices. It may be tucked off the beaten track, but is definitely worth a detour.