Located in a tourist focused but pleasant laneway, just off Rathdrum’s main street, which has been used as a location for many Irish films (the restaurant walls feature stills from the various productions) and is also home to a cosy café/pub, Marino and Janet Monterisi's attractive restaurant is in the simple whitewashed interior of a long cottage, with the dining area divided by an open wood stove and a view into the raised kitchen at one end.
It has lots of atmosphere and people travel long distances to eat here for its relaxed ambience and excellent food, made with simple, quality ingredients - and a reputation built on authentic Italian cooking.
Recently, however, there have been big changes: while you may still expect to find simple, quality ingredients - and, indeed, there is an even greater emphasis on using the very best local and artisan Irish produce - the cooking style is no longer solely Italian.
Instead you will find menus offering an exciting range of mainstream modern European dishes with an Italian accent, richly enhanced by multiple references to the local origins of the foods Marino has so carefully sourced: appetisers kick off with a wonderful selection Connemara and Gubbeen artisan air-dried meats, and there are starters like poached pear with Wicklow Blue & hazelnut dressing or Kiltrea organic smoked salmon with caper berries.
Superb meat has always been a feature here and, although entire menus are so tempting that making choices may be an agony of indecision, many will get no further than the char-grilled Wexford beef (10oz rib-eye, 14oz T-bone, 8oz fillet) served with a great range of sauces.
For those who hanker after the 'real Italian' style there is still plenty of choice - in dishes like Gubbeen fresh Italian sausages with cannellini beans & organic chilli oil; home made Tagliolini with Gubbeen pancetta, egg, Parmesan & black pepper; or Carnaroli risotto with Kiltrea smoked haddock & Gubbeen chorizo - and, an ethical version of an old favourite, breaded Bunclody Rose Veal escalope with fried egg, anchovies, capers & veal jus.
Desserts still include some of the Italian favourites too -panna cotta with seasonal fruits and raspberry sauce, for example, and tiramisu’ with coffee sauce - but the rich variety of dishes offered on all courses is impressive.
Menus change with the seasons and fish depends entirely on what is best on the day, so fish dishes are always listed as specials.
Good value is another special feature of this delightful restaurant - remarkable value, in fact, when you consider the quality of produce used. Most main courses on the à la carte are under €20 and the early dinner menu offers three excellent courses with plenty of choice on each for very little more.
Add to this delightful service and a well-organised (and well-priced) wine list, and it is obvious why so many beat a path to this door.
Seats 46. L & D Tue-Sun 12.30-2pm & 6.30-10pm (to 9pm Sun); value D €21.50/26.50; also à la carte; house wine €19.95; sc 10% on groups 6+. Reservations recommended; children welcome (high chair, childrens menu); wheelchair accessible. Closed Mon, Bank Hols. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
