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Beatrice Kennedy

Named after the lady whose home it once was, the dining area of this unusual restaurant begins in what would have been her front room and extends into adjoining areas towards the back, retaining something of the authentic lived-in feeling of a private period residence; although now furnished with white-damasked tables, it has a Victorian atmosphere with a small open fireplace and mantelpiece and a few books and leftover personal effects: softly-lit, atmospheric, intimate, it exudes an atmosphere of calm in which to enjoy proprietor-chef Jim McCarthy's accomplished cooking.

Ingredients are carefully sourced, dishes are smoked on the premises and breads, desserts and ice creams are all home-made. The style is modern, with some Thai and Chinese influences, but also flavours closer to home in roast cod. Presentation is very special, especially the desserts - which are minor works of art.

This delightful place is very much itself and offers a welcome contrast to the mainly contemporary restaurants of the city.

Seats 80 (private room 25). D Tue-Sun, 5-10.15 (Sun to 8.15pm); L Sun only 12.30-2.15. Early D (5-7), Set Sun L about £15. Closed Mon, 24-26 Dec, 11-14 Jul. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Switch.

Directions:

Adjacent to Queen's University.