In a quiet, wooded setting just a few minutes’ drive from Blarney, this pretty riverside pub is run by John and Anne Blair and their son Duncan, a warmly hospitable family who take real pride in welcoming visitors.
Sitting in the garden in summer, you might see a wily heron waiting for trout rising in the Owenageara river, while winter offers welcoming fires in this comfortingly traditional country pub. It’s a lovely place to drop into at any time, whether for a drink or a tasty bite to eat in the bar or evening restaurant.
Duncan Blair, who trained at Ballymaloe, works alongside head chef Hervé Remboure and a long-established kitchen team - and they are well known for the quality of the food they offer in both the characterful bar and the atmospheric restaurant, which has rustic charm and is candlelit at night.
The menus offered are à la carte (although set menus are possible for groups of 8 or more) and include a daily lunch menu, an evening bar menu and a restaurant dinner menu.
All feature local Cork and Kerry produce such as local Angus beef (good steaks are a mainstay), Cromane mussels from West Kerry, West Cork smoked salmon and a range of fresh seafood from the nearby ports including Kenmare, sausages from the famous butchers O’Flynns of Cork, Ardrahan cheese (made nearby at Kanturk) and artisan produce from other areas too, such as St Tola goat cheese, from Co Clare.
Skilful cooking is wholesome in style and, depending on the season and weather, pleasingly traditional – you might expect old favourites like mussels in garlic & cream sauce, beef & stout casserole (made with local Beamish stout, not ‘the other one’), corned beef and parsley sauce with cabbage and champ, old style roast chicken with stuffing and gravy, and baked cod on parsley mash - followed by homely desserts like pear and apple cobbler or a warm chocolate gateau with whipped cream.
Gluten free dishes and imaginative vegetarian options are highlighted on all menus, and evening menus include some dressier choices - whole Dublin Bay prawns (langoustines) in garlic butter, perhaps, and rack of spring lamb or honey roast duck.
To complement this honest food, service is warm and friendly, and a well-chosen and informative wine list includes one or two organic wines and is kindly priced, with most bottle coming in under €30 and many under €25.
Traditional Irish music on Monday nights in summer (May-Sep).
: Seats 45 (restaurant/bar) & 100 in garden; children welcome before 7pm. Bar menu 12.30-9.30 daily (additional evening bar menu 4-9.30pm). Restaurant L 12.30-4, D 6.30-9.30; a la carte; house wine €21; service discretionary. Live traditional music Mon, 9.30pm, Jun-Sept. Closed 25 Dec & Good Fri. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
