Since 2006 chef-patron Oliver Dunne has been presiding over this four-storey Georgian building in a seaside terrace in the charming town of Malahide, and the town has welcomed this talented young chef, who made his name at Mint in Ranelagh after training in many of London’s top restaurants.
The entrance level now offers a smart reception area and bar, the lower floor is a bistro, "The Brasserie" (see below), and the fine dining restaurant, Bon Appétit, is on the first floor.
In the Guide’s experience, reception may be disconcertingly off-hand but, once upstairs, expectations rise as the sensual palette of muted metallics and moody greens creates a real sense of luxury in two classically proportioned adjoining rooms. Silk lined walls, contemporary chandeliers, cream carver chairs, huge mirrors, fresh flowers and generous linen-draped tables all add to the sense of anticipation.
Menus offered include a 5-course set dinner menu with six choices on each course (€50) and a Menu Prestige (€75) which offers less choice but comes with all the little niceties (amuse bouche, sorbet, pre-dessert, petits fours) and the option of a Sommelier Wine Selection (€45) to accompany each course.
In both cases there are supplements on some dishes – ravioli of prawns (served, perhaps, with basil coulis, tomato fondue and lobster bisque) and fillet of Aberdeen Angus (typically with slow roast tomato and Bordelaise onion pomme purée) both incur a €5 supplement on the Set Menu for example, and a cheese selection, offered as an alternative to a pre-dessert on the Menu Prestige, costs an extra €10.
Luxury ingredients like foie gras and, perhaps, turbot, lobster and prawns feature although, surprisingly, there is no mention at all of provenance – not so much as a ‘Howth lobster’ or a ‘Wicklow lamb’, less still the names of any artisan suppliers - which gives menus a strangely impersonal feel.
The cooking, however, is highly sophisticated, with each plate served as a work of art – every dish is paired with thoughtfully considered accompaniments which, for the most part, work well and enhance the dining experience.
The wine list is lengthy, with some value to be found, and, although service may not always match the expectations of professionalism in fine dining at this level, the overall experience is something that would not until recently have been expected outside Dublin city centre.
The chic ground floor cocktail bar is a nice space for digestifs, or a pleasant way to kick start an evening in one of the most exciting County Dublin restaurants and also serves Tapas Wednesday - Saturdays from 6pm (3 Tapas plates and a glass of wine for €25).
Downstairs,The Brasserie is an informal but equally stylish operation in the basement, with longer opening hours.
Here head chef Andy Turner turns out smart modern dishes - quail and black pudding with poached egg on top, foie gras parfait, upscale steaks; it’s much more accessible than the fine dining restaurant and the early bird offers good value.
Bon Appetit: L Thu-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm. D Tue-Sat 6-10.30pm; Sun 1pm-8pm inc.; 5 course set D €50; gourmet menu €75; also à la carte; house wine €22; SC 10% on groups 8+. Seats 100 (private room, 40); children welcome (high chair, baby changing facilities); air conditioning. Closed Mon, 1st week Jan, 1st two weeks Aug. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
