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Cayenne

After two decades as pioneers of Northern Ireland’s food culture, Paul and Jeanne Rankin’s flagship restaurant continues to offer Belfast diners a mix of interesting and fashionable food in a cool urban atmosphere.

While perhaps no longer at the cutting edge of the city’s food scene, this large, funky Belfast restaurants still doing what it has always done: cooking well sourced food skilfully, and presenting it with style at affordable prices. Yet, although both well known and well located, it seems to be less busy than it used to be, probably because – largely thanks to the efforts of the Rankins themselves - the city now offers so much choice; also, perhaps, because you could easily walk past it without knowing it was a restaurant, so that casual diners unfamiliar with the legend try their luck elsewhere.

They may, however, be missing a bargain, especially at lunchtime when 2/3 course menus at £12/15 are a steal. The dark brown and spicy cayenne interior is a pleasing mix of smart contemporary décor and old fashioned comfort; round tables down one side of the restaurant have classic white linen, while rectangular ones opposite are bare, but both have very comfortable chairs – and friendly, smartly uniformed staff are quick to settle arriving guests in and offer menus.

At lunch a choice of three dishes is offered on each course and very nice they are too, although perhaps a little too restrictive as the jump to à la carte prices is discouragingly significant for lunchtime.

Fish cooking is a strength at Cayenne, and other especially enjoyable choices could include an interesting and tasty rare breed pork belly with crubeen sausage, thyme and flageolet beans and – from a separate vegetarian menu - a simple, fresh-tasting ricotta and spinach ravioli, with tomatoes and olive oil.

The à la carte menu is likely to feature many of the Cayenne signature dishes - the ever-popular salt’n’chilli squid with chilli jam and aioli, for example, or - striking a more more European tone - a delectable combination of pan seared foie gras with toasted brioche and roast nectarines; but nothing stands still here, and even the most popular dishes are under constant review.

Desserts offer a combination of innovative (crispy fried strawberry & marshmallow strudel with blackcurrant sauce and crème fraiche) and familiar (Bramley apple & blackberry crumble with blackberry ripple ice cream), and portions may be unexpectedly large.

The cooking can be really exciting, and is generally backed efficiently up by smart, well-trained young staff who work tirelessly to ensure guests receive first class service.

A very good wine list, organised by grape variety and style, offers a wide choice in both range and price, and includes plenty of wines by the glass and half bottles, also some fine wines; extensive drinks menu too.

Seats 120 (private room, 16); reservations advised; children welcome; air conditioning; toilets wheelchair accessible. L Thu-Fri 12-2.30; D Mon-Sun 6-10/10.30pm (to 8.45pm Sun); early bird 2/3 course D 5-7pm £20/25; also la carte & vegetarian menu. House wine from about £17 sc discretionary (except 10% recommended on parties of 6+). Closed L Sat-Mon, 25-26 Dec, 1 Jan, 12 July. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Switch.

Directions:

5 mins from Europa Hotel at top of Great Victoria St.