Just across the road from the Library, this appealing Dublin restaurants earned a loyal local clientèle and a reputation beyond the immediate area.
There's a chic little bar just inside the door and a gently contemporary dining area, up a few steps, beyond. Menus are light and colourful, including some unusual dishes - a starter of Gorgonzola tartlet with a rocket & Waldorf saald perhaps, or main courses like confit rabbit and black bacon linguine with girolle cream, or roast veal chop with lemon & anchovy butter and lyonnaise potatoes - and there's an emphasis on fresh seafood.
Daily fish specials are offered and, at lunchtime, might include excellent main courses like pan-dried fillet of sea bream with roast garlic & olive oil mash, tomato & shallot compôte and salsa verde.
Dinner menus also offer plenty of seafood, possibly including starters of mackerel fillet, skate & langoustine ravioli or seared scallops and main courses like seared tuna with crab spring roll, whilst meat lovers will enjoy panfried magret duck breast, loin of Finnebrodge Estate venison or rack of lamb.
Desserts are more than tempting - warm grilled peaches with amaretto and crème fraiche or nougat and raspberry semifreddo are typically delicious examples. There is also an excellent cheese board offering a selection of Irish and French.
Good value for money, and honest cooking based on quality ingredients, has them beating a path to the door, so booking is essential, especially at weekends. Set lunch menus offer a choice of half a dozen dishes on each course and, like the early evening menus, offer particularly good value.
Professional, efficient service and a good wine list complete an appealing package.
*Hartleys in Dun Laoghaire is in common ownership (see entry).
Seats 70; children welcome (high chair, children's menu); air conditioning. L Tue-Sat, 12-3, Sun L only, 12.30-3.30pm; D Tue-Sat 5.30-"late". Set 2/3 course L €23/29; value D €29, all night, 3 course Sun L €29; also `a la carte L&D; house wine €20, sc discretionary except 10% on parties of 6+. Closed D Sun, all Mon, 25-27 Dec. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
