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Dobbins Wine Bistro

This restaurant hidden away near Merrion Square is something of a Dublin institution, run since 1978 by the late John O'Byrne and manager Patrick Walsh. Recently a major revamp transformed the restaurant - gone are the famous old Nissen hut and sawdust-strewn floors of old, here instead is a sleek modern look with smart leather banquettes and chairs, and contemporary lighting.

But fans were glad to find that the fundamentals remain in place. A visit to this unique oasis has always been a treat for great hospitality, food which was consistently delicious in a style that showed an awareness of current trends without slavishly following them, and a love of wine.

Now, while old hands may miss the cosiness of the previous Dobbins, the hospitality and professionalism has not changed and, although the presentation may be slicker, the cooking should still please.

Ingredients are sourced with care, and reflect the locality: Dublin Bay prawns (not the ubiquitous tiger prawns found in so many establishments that should know better), and pork that is served with crackling indicate the philosophy and you'll find good value here too.

Children welcome. Air conditioning. Seats 120 (private room, 40). L Mon-Fri 12.30-2.30, D Tue-Sat 7.30-10.30. Set L about €24.50, D á la carte. House wine from €20. SC discretionary. Closed L Sat, all Sun, D Mon, bank hols, Christmas week. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Between Lower & Upper Mount Street