Eatery 120

Its impressive tiled frontage with picture window framed above a bright band of mismatched floral tiles (a theme continued in the chic interior) is reminiscent of an old-fashioned Spanish deli, the new waiting and smoking areas are Paris Metro themed and the interior is a stylishly comfortable international mix of velvet cushioned banquettes, bistro chairs and clusters of moon lamps...

Eatery 120 is very much a restaurant of our times. The unattractive name may summon up all the wrong images, but this is a neighbourhood restaurant with a difference and has attracted fans from a wide area.

Unpretentious nonetheless, this Dublin restaurants long opening hours and its ‘where haute-cuisine meets home cooking’ policy endear it to local followers, who love the seasonality of menus proudly based on local ingredients in season (and supporting the weekly Ranelagh farmers’ market), the friendly atmosphere and brilliant, accurately cooked food which varies according to the time of day.

Menus offered indicate respect for a wide customer base and include a very nice children's menu as well as weekend brunch, weekday lunch, early dinner, and an à la carte - a lot of thought has gone into the menus, and also into a compact but very interesting wine list that is organised in a friendly way by style, and offers a high proportion of the list by the glass.

Cited specialities of smoked mackerel paté, glazed pork belly (served with mustard mash, savoy cabbage and apple sauce), dry-aged rib-eye (12-oz Fermanagh steak with classic béarnaise, pepper sauce or blue cheese butter and hand-cut chips) say a lot about the philosophy here too - a wide range is actually offered, yet this is not show-off cooking but real food for real people.

Service can be a little slow at times, but staff are friendly - and all is forgiven once food as good as this arrives: bravo!