The most remarkable thing about Jim and Patricia McInerney's small split-level restaurant in the village of Tulla is that it has been consistently enjoyable over such a long period. Patricia is the chef, and the dishes she sends out from the kitchen are a daily testament to her imagination, insistence on good ingredients and attention to detail.
The room is simple - refreshingly free of decoration, except for a pair of striking pictures and fresh flowers on the tables, but there's always a prompt welcome and tables (which are covered in classic white linen in the evening) are nicely spaced.
Lunchtime draws on hearty, good value home cooked food from a simple menu. In the evening there's a fairly priced à la carte menu offering a well-balanced choice of dishes which are a little out of the ordinary, with specialities including a starter salad of fresh crabmeat with coriander, chilli & lime and a main course of roast rack of lamb with scallion mash and (a rarity in Irish restaurants) fresh mint sauce; fish and vegetarian dishes are equally good, and delicious genuinely home-made desserts might include simple treats like crushed meringues with fresh fruit & passion fruit purée.
Service is confident and pleasant, and a well-chosen wine list offers some good bottles at reasonable prices - and there's even a take-away service, a boon to self-catering holidaymakers.
Seats 40. Brunch Mon-Fri 9.30am-2.45pm, L Sat 12-3pm, D Fri-Sat, 7-9.30/10pm. A la carte; house wine about €17; SC discretionary (except 10% on groups of 8+). Air conditioning; wheelchair access to toilets. Closed Sun, bank hols; 2 weeks Nov & Jan. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
