Fans of Hemmingways' quirky fish shop-cum-restaurant just off the seafront in Clontarf might miss the charming fishmonger vibe that formerly made this place so unusual.
But, although the appealing fish counter, bar stools and bright lights have been replaced to double numbers, in their place sits a charming little dining room that's cosy, intimate and buzzy - and, although perhaps not as obvious as it once was, a nautical theme is still evident with fishing nets, portholes and boating memorabilia.
The Dublin restaurants little wooden bar with four stools wouldn't look out of place on board a vessel, and is a great spot for a pre-dinner drink while waiting for your table. From here you can peer into the open plan kitchen at the back of the room, where a one-man show serves up dishes like clockwork - the busy kitchen porter is the only clue that anyone might be under pressure.
Expect a hearty welcome from the owner, Brian Creedon, who strives to wait on his packed restaurant single-handedly and for the most part efficiently, somehow managing to make time for friendly banter with everyone.
Many of the diners seem to know each other and good-sized tables, nicely spaced and set up with comfortable chairs, allow the legions of locals to chat to their neighbours.
A short menu features Hemmingways' signature dishes like a smoky, silky fish chowder and juicy, piquant tiger prawn pil pil, while a supplementary blackboard of daily specials might include a starter of grilled sardines or perhaps fresh cod stuffed with seafood.
The chef's strengths lie in his choice of ingredients and skilled seasoning - everything is cooked to perfection with deliciously fresh and clean flavours and rustic bistro style presentation.
A shortish wine list is fairly priced, although it would be good to see more wines by the glass.
Portions are unusually large, which explains why there's only one daily dessert on offer. If you do feel the urge for something sweet, finish up with one of Hemmingways' legendary Irish coffees: they may slow down Brian's ability to tot up your bill at night's end, but at this stage the refreshingly informal vibe should have lulled you into a pleasantly relaxed state.
This is what good neighbourhood restaurants are all about: honest, affordable cooking in a welcoming room.
Seats 28; children welcome before 6pm; wheelchair access to restaurant & toilets; Open D Tue-Sat, 5-9pm (to 10pm Fri/Sat), Sun Tapas, 5-8pm; early bird D 5-7pm €21.95; house wine €22.50. Closed Mon, 25 Dec. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
