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Jacobs Ladder

Adrian and Bernie Roche's smart contemporary restaurant is up a couple of flights of stairs and has a fine view, overlooking the playing fields of Trinity College. The decor is on the minimalist side with a wooden floor and paintings for sale; good-sized tables with classic white linen and comfortable high-back chairs bode well. Adrian's cooking style is creative modern Irish and, while there is a slight leaning towards fish, his wide ranging seasonal menus always include some less usual meat dishes: steamed loin of rabbit - and imaginative vegetarian dishes.

Several menus are offered - set menus at lunch and dinner, an á la carte and a Tasting Menu - and, although service can sometimes be a little slow, Adrian is a talented and dedicated chef, and the food is cooked to order. Dinner begins with a complimentary amuse-bouche - a tasty demi tasse of vegetable cream soup perhaps and excellent home-made breads; beautifully presented starters might include a house speciality of cep brulée (with its mousse, potato tuile & sautéed ceps) or roast quail, with eggs en cocotte, followed by main courses; panache of seafood, with basil gnocchi & summer vegetables or roast breast of duck served with fondant potatoes, braised small lettuce, white pudding and foie gras apple jus.

This is complicated fare, but well executed. Classic desserts may be based on fruit grown by the family, and are worth leaving room for, or there are Irish farmhouse cheeses. A meal here should always be enjoyable and the set menus offer good value; however, if you order from the á la carte where starters are €14.50-18.50 and mains around €33 - this becomes an expensive restaurant and the slow service needs to be addressed.

A very nicely balanced and selected wine list includes six good house wines.

Jacobs Ladder : Children welcome. Seats 80 (private room, 50). L Tue-Sat 12.30-2.30; D Tue-Sat, 6-10; Set D €44; Tasting menu €80, also á la carte. House wine from €21. No SC. Closed Sun & Mon, 25 Dec - 6 Jan, 17 Mar, Good Friday & 1 week Aug. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

City centre overlooking Trinity College.