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James Street South

Just across the road from the Europa Hotel, Niall and Joanne McKenna's elegant modern restaurant has tall arched windows overlooking James Street South and it is well-appointed in a beautifully understated style with white walls and crisp white linen, relieved by contemporary Irish artwork, fresh flowers and effective lighting.

Since opening in 2004, this talented team has not only brought something fresh and exceptionally good to Belfast, but their gem of a restaurant has thrived and they have earned a loyal following. Niall McKenna, who has worked for respected names like Gary Rhodes, Marco Pierre White and Nico Ladennis, has confidently stamped his own authority on the Northern Ireland food scene, serving modern classics with an Irish twist - and continues unfalteringly to delight diners in Belfast city centre.

This is deceptively simple food using only the best of fresh, local ingredients cooked with an assured elegance, and a welcome absence of fusion influences. Although menus are simply presented, there are plenty of very tempting options - including lovely vegetarian dishes like chicory tartlet with goat's cheese, pear and walnuts, luxurious starters like sautéed foie gras with caramelised saffron pear and candied almonds, great local lamb loin served perfectly pink with a celeriac and turnip gratin complemented by a sublime red wine jus - and utterly irresistible desserts including a delectable house fondue (to share), trio of petits créme brulées, or perhaps a rich hot chocolate fondant with a gooey centre.

The dining room has an exciting, lively ambience, and well choreographed service from the smartly-dressed staff should ensure a memorable meal here. Lunch and pre-theatre menus offer exceptional value.

The wine list is arranged mainly by grape variety and includes regional varieties; although mainly under £30, there is also a short selection of fine wines; gourmet wine evenings are sometimes held.

Seats 70. Reservations advised. Air con. No smoking area (bar). Children welcome. L Mon-sat, 12-2.45; D daily, 5.45-10.45 (Sun 5.30-9.30). Set L about £15. Pre theatre D Mon-Thu 5.45-6.45 about £16, also A la Carte. Closed 25-26 Dec, 1 Jan, 11-12 July. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Switch.

Directions:

City centre: located behind Belfast City Hall, between Bedford Stree and Brunswick street.