Squashed into a row of red brick shopfronts, Junior’s is a laidback Dublin restaurants of the type more often seen in the side streets of Paris or Naples. Run by two brothers, one looks after front of house while the other produces satisfyingly hearty food in a tiny space separated from customers only by a deli counter and a classic Italian espresso machine.
Style here leans towards rustic Italian granny cooking reflecting the chef’s continental experience, with big fresh soups, antipasta plates heaped with first rate charcuterie and chunks of Parmesan, enormous bowls of bouillabaisse-style fish stew and melting roast pork belly, served with herby greens and creamy Tuscan white beans.
Daily menus are written up on blackboards, while the small but admirably selective wine list is printed up for longer perusal, with a good choice available by the (generous) glass.
This buzzy spot doesn’t take bookings - it’s first come first served, but intending diners don’t mind waiting in the pub next door.
Also open for lunch, which tends to be soup and hefty handcut sandwiches.