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Kilgraney House

In a lovely site overlooking the Barrow Valley, Bryan Leech and Martin Marley's charming late Georgian house - which (encouragingly) takes its name from the Irish 'cill greíne', meaning 'sunny hill or wood' - is set in extensive wooded grounds.

It is a serene and restful place with beautiful walks, and Altamont gardens nearby; Bryan and Martin have a great love of gardens - a recent project has been the development of their monastic herb gardens, and the kitchen garden provides plenty of good things for Bryan to transform into delicious dinners.

His cooking style is creative and contemporary, making full use of local and artisan produce. Six-course menus begin with an amuse bouche and, although there are various influences at work, there's a leaning towards Japan, notably in specialities like their own home-smoked duck and a very beautiful dish of wild Slaney salmon wrapped in nori and wasabi.

Your breakfast next morning will showcase local foods, including cheeses, more traditionally. But it is for the sheer sense of style pervading the house that it is most famous - Bryan and Martin's enjoyment in its restoration and furnishing is abundantly clear: elegant, yes, but with a great sense of fun too.

Dinner can be shared with other guests at a communal table, or served at separate tables; a short, informative wine list is chosen with care - and non-residents are welcome by reservation.

An Aroma Spa offers a range of therapies and massages, for both men and women, including pregnancy treatments.

Self-catering accommodation is also available, in two courtyard suites, the gate lodge and a recently restored cottage.

Herbal treatment room (massage & aromatherapy); hot tub. Small conferences. Not suitable for children under 12. Rooms 8 (2 suites, 3 shower only, 1 ground floor, all no smoking). No pets. B&B about €85, ss about about €35. D (non-residents welcome by reservation), 8 pm. Set 6-course D about €50. (Vegetarian meals or other special dietary requirements on request.) Wines from about €20. Closed Mon-Tue and mid Nov-Feb. Helipad. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Just off the R705, halfway between Bagenalstown and Borris.