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L'Ecrivain

Derry and Sallyanne Clarke's acclaimed city centre restaurant is the destination of choice for many of Dublin's most discerning diners, and equally popular with the social set. On two levels - spacious and very dashing, it has lots of pale wood and smoky mirrors, and the main seating level includes a conservatory complete with awning which also acts as an airy and comfortable smoking area.

Lovely elegant table settings promise seriously good food, and the cooking style - classic French with contemporary flair and a strong leaning towards modern Irish cooking - remains consistent, although new ideas are constantly incorporated and the list of specialities keeps growing. Specialities change seasonally but dishes which this kitchen has made its own include a starter of baked rock oysters with York cabbage & crispy cured bacon, with a Guinness sabayon, a fine modern interpretation of traditional Irish themes - perhaps followed by a main course of loin & rack of spring lamb with organic leeks, aubergine schnitzel and lamb sweetbreads.

Menus offered by Derry Clarke and Chef de Cuisine Stephen Gibson include set menus at lunch at dinner, an á la carte and a Tasting Menu (€120) that is available to whole tables only, between 7 and 8.30pm. Whatever the time and menu, all the thoughtful little touches of a special meal abound - and there are some major ones too, like the very welcome policy of adding the price of your wine after the 10% service charge has been added to your bill, instead of charging on the total as most other restaurants do: this is an expensive restaurant but a gesture like this endears it to customers who happily dig deep into their pockets for the pleasure of eating here.

Seafood, lamb, beef and game, in season, are all well represented, but menus often include neglected ingredients like rabbit, which is always appealingly served, and vegetarian dishes are handled with style. Pastry chef Joyce O'Sullivan's wonderful puddings are presented with panache and might include Black Forest Gateau fondant (cherry ice cream with cherry & white chocolate mousse), or toffee apple semi freddo; a special wine is suggested for each dish on the dessert menu and an extensive tea and coffee menu is offered.

Presentation is impressive but not ostentatious, and attention to detail - garnishes designed individually to enhance each dish, careful selection of plates, delicious home-made breads and splendid farmhouse cheeses - is invariably faultless. Lunch, as usual in top rank restaurants, offers outstanding value.

Sommelier Martina Delaney is renowned for her fine, constantly changing wine list, and her warmth and enthusiasm when helping guests with their wine selection; the list, which includes an impressive selection available by the bottle, half bottle or glass, also offers many special bottles a tempting range of champagnes and digestifs.

[L'Ecrivain was the winner of our Wine Award in 2002.]

Seats 104 (private room, 20. outdoor seating, 22). Children welcome before 9pm; air con. L Mon-Fri 12.30-2, D Mon-Sat 7-10.30, Set L 2/3 course, €30/45. Set D €75 (Vegetarian Menu about €50). Tasting Menu €120. House wine from €30. SC discretionary. Closed L Sat, all Sun, Christmas & New Year, Easter, bank hols. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

10 minutes walk east of St Stephens Green, opposite Bank of Ireland HQ.