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L'Gueuleton

This no-frills French restaurant took Dublin by storm when it opened in the autumn of 2004 - so much so that, in a very short time, it became necessary to extend.

The format: simple premises and no-nonsense French bistro decor, with tightly packed tables and a few seats at the bar (with views into the kitchen), plus menus that make no distinction between courses and offer a combination of less usual dishes (Catalan snails with fennel and mortea sausage) and the classic (navarin of lamb). A plat du jour on the lunch menu, served with a glass of wine (or coffee or juice) is popular and great value (€15).

Add to this great cooking, a short, all French wine list (by Simon Tyrrell), pretty efficient service and terrific value for money - and you have the kind of restaurant that Dubliners had been praying for.

The original chef, Troy Maguire, left amidst much publicity in 2007, to set up the new Locks (see entry), but Warren Massey has stepped into the role with aplomb and the kitchen continues to please.

The only downside is the continuing no reservations policy.

Seats 75 (outdoor, 20). Open Mon-Sat, L 12.30-3, D 6-10. Closed Sun. A la carte. House wines from €15. No reservations; SC 12.5% on groups 5+. MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

At Hogans Bar, off Georges St.