On the first floor of a redbrick Ballsbridge terrace, conspicuously located near the Herbert Park Hotel - and just a few minutes walk from the RDS - this long-established restaurant has lost none of its charm or quality over the years, and now has a unique appeal as the experience is so different from contemporary restaurants.
The restaurant is in business now for 30 years and the whole team - owner Tommy Crean, restaurant manager (and sommelier) John Rigby and head chef Don McGuinness - have been working here together since 1980. The system is running very sweetly and their philosophy of offering the freshest of fish and seafood and 'tampering as little as possible with the product' has stood the test of time.
How good it is to see old favourites like dressed Kilmore Quay crab, potted mussels, pickled herring and fresh prawn bisque on the menu, along with many other old friends including fresh prawns mornay, sole bonne femme and coquille St Jacques.
And, while seafood is the undisputed star of the show, other tastes are also well catered for in similar retro style: you'll find home-made chicken liver paté, French onion soup and corn on the cob among the starters, for example, and main courses including kidneys turbigo, flambeed duck and steaks and game in season - and, in addition to the classic sweet trolley, this is the place to find that old flambéed favourite, crèpes suzette.
This Dublin restaurants extensive menu is a treat to read, but there's also a daily fish tray display for specials - dishes are explained and diners are encouraged to choose their own combinations, and to ask questions about the fish and its source.
All this and wonderfully old-fashioned service too, including advice from John Rigby on the best wine to match your meal.
If only there were more places like this - long may it last.
D Mon-Sat, 6.30-9.30. House wine about €22.50. SC 12.5%. Closed Sun, 24 Dec-4 Jan, bank hols. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
