For more than 25 years there’s been a restaurant at 1 Windsor Terrace, but it is this fine building’s current incarnation that has caused the most buzz.
Since 2010 Locks Brasserie has been run by Sebastien Masi and Kirsten Batt, whose excellent Pearl Brasserie is one of Dublin’s finest restaurants. With a dream team of Rory Carville (ex Four Seasons and L'Ecrivain) in the kitchen and Pearl stalwart Thomas Pinoncely as manager, diners can expect wonderful cooking and charming service in one of Dublin’s nicest dining rooms.
This Dublin restaurants canalside setting and generous windows allow diners to watch swans glide by as they enjoy the comforts of a classy interior that’s at once cool and luxurious. Toffee and ochre seats, generous tables (bare topped but graced by woven place mats, large glasses and linen napkins), pale tongue and groove walls and dark parquet create a Scandinavian design meets private club feel that’s both fashionable and relaxed. Throw in an open fire, cute bar, glamorous toilets and a sublime private dining room and it’s hard not to charmed.
Menus are admirably concise and Rory’s moreish cooking reflects Sebastien’s fastidious attention to detail: classic French dishes are given modern treatment, resulting in luxe brasserie dining. Something as simple as celeriac velouté is elevated to stellar status with the addition of duxelle of black truffle and trompette de la mort. Likewise a classic terrine of foie gras may be accompanied by delightful caramelised pear, pear puree and oh-so-clever gingerbread crumble.
Front of house, the mainly French team deliver quality service that’s informed, interested and charming. The cellar is stocked with a wide selection of predominantly French bottles and there are plenty of choices by the glass.
Seasonal ingredients form the backbone of Lock’s menus, and there’s amazing value to be found in the €25 Seasonal Market 2-course Treat menu, available 7 days a week (though just until 7pm on Thursday to Saturday). While the bill for à la carte dining can add up you can expect a great meal, with especially fabulous desserts, in this smart and fashionable brasserie.
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