Hidden down a mews lane behind a row of shops in Donnybrook, this little gem exudes rus in urbe charm in a walled garden setting complete with splashing fountain, evening birdsong and the eponymous mulberry tree.
Opened without fanfare in April 2011, the restaurant has been building reputation by word of mouth, largely due to head chef John Wyer's accomplished cooking and seasonally driven menus.
The menu changes weekly and is tiny but well-formed in every sense of the word, with palm sized paper menus offering two choices of starter, main course and dessert at a set price of €40.
In startling contrast, the wine and extensive cocktail list is presented on a cricket bat sized piece of wood. The 36 bottle selection includes a good mix of classics and attractively priced quirky choices, ten of which are offered by the glass.
Craft beers are also offered, and pride is taken in the bar listing includes a range of Irish spirits, among them a notable collection of Irish whiskeys.
Baskets of fresh-from-the-oven breads are served with herby dips and dishes featuring ingredients like Clare Island organic salmon, Five Mile Town goat's cheese, Carlingford oysters and wild Howth Head leeks flag the kitchen's commitment to careful sourcing and provenance.
John Wyer's talent for combinations that are as pleasing to the eye as to the palate are shown in dishes like rump of spring lamb from Lough Erne (albeit given for some reason in the Scottish style, ‘Loch’) with homemade gnocchi, baby spinach, wild garlic and pine nuts. Slow braised Kettyle Farm beef cheek comes with pickled a puréed cauliflower, wild garlic and homemade macaroni.
A separate vegetarian menu is based on elements of the main courses, using organic produce sourced around Rush in North County Dublin.
Presentation that originally veered toward minimalist nouvelle cuisine proportions has now been modified in line with current tastes, and requests for extras are graciously provided by smoothly professional staff.
Proprietor Brian Lennon, who also presides over the more casual Eatery 120 in Ranelagh, says the three day opening policy has been successful and there are no plans to expand on that at the moment.
D only, Thu-Sat, from 6 pm. Set 3-course dinner, €40. House wine €22.
