This recent addition to Belfast's Cathedral Quarter dining scene was quick to make an impact after opening in December 2007 – which should come as no surprise since the man behind the project is Adrian Lowry, a former manager in Nick's Warehouse.
It’s a bright modern space, but with references to the building's redbrick industrial past as a linen mill: the white walls have panels of red brick and contemporary art works, recesses in a mauve ceiling reveal the original girders, now painted white; oak floor boards soften the effect of contemporary tables and chairs and big windows to the front have high tables and stools looking across to the side of St. Anne's Cathedral.
By day this Belfast restaurants a bright, airy space; by night, lights are dimmed for a softer effect; while not an obvious choice for an intimate meal (acoustics could be improved to absorb the dining chatter), there is the promise of imaginative modern European cooking from chef Alan Higginson.
Their frequently changed à la carte menus are well designed to please a wide clientèle, notably at lunch time when ‘Light and Tasty’ and ‘Hot and Filling’ options are offered.
Begin, perhaps, with a substantial and beautifully cooked starter of chargrilled squid with rocket and basil pesto (£5.50), followed by a 'Light and Tasty' rare beef salad with blue cheese walnut vinaigrette and rocket (£7.95), or a 'Hot and Filling' pork belly with creamy champ, broccoli, five spice thyme jus, or confit chicken with Mediterranean vegetables and polenta (each £7.25).
The dinner menu, also à la carte, offers a very good range of dishes - seared lamb salad, spaghetti with Portavogie prawns and ingredients like rabbit and mackerel, are all possible starters, for example, and main courses offer upbeat renditions of many favourites including chargrilled steaks and honey roast duck.
Appealing mainstream vegetarian choices are offered, and vegetarian dishes and those containing nuts, seeds or shellfish are indicated on menus.
Finish with an Irish and continental cheeseboard or homemade desserts, possibly including a rich but beautiful glazed chocolate terrine, excellent apple crumble and a selection of ices and sorbets.
With friendly professional service to match the accomplished cooking, a good wine list (including 12 wines by the glass) and reasonable prices it is not difficult to see why this restaurant has found a niche.
L Mon-Fri, 12-3 pm; D Tue-Sat, 6-9.30pm (to 10pm Sat). A la carte. Closed D Mon, L Sat, all Sun. MasterCard, Visa, Switch.
