The O’Brien name stands out proudly in relief above the shopfront of this old bar in the charming heritage town of Lismore, and it is wonderful to see it back in commercial action again – this time in the caring hands of Justin and Jenny Green, of nearby Ballyvolane House.

They inherited a mainly contemporary yet atmospheric interior - well-executed by the previous owners, who had run it as a wine and tapas bar. The original snug, bar shelving, counter and stained-glass panelling are all unchanged, but there are now chic leather high stools in the front bar, a cosy ‘in between area’ beyond the bar where an open fire can be lit in winter, and a restaurant in two rooms towards the back of the building, which opens onto a walled garden, with a deck and seating for fine weather.

Simply decorated with understated style, the restaurant has bare-topped tables, high-backed leather chairs and white walls hung with black and white photographs recording the changes to this fine old building. Old and new work well together, with the spirit of the original pub very much alive and well - a good foundation for the Greens to add their own stamp, including shelves of homemade treats to purchase (Ballyvolane relishes, preserves and elderflower cordial for example), and a large picture of their trademark chop seen against a bright blue background that decorates the bar.

Homemade and local food is at the heart of this enterprise and it’s a fair bet that the legendary butcher Michael McGrath along the street (who also supplies meats to Ballyvolane) was a major source of inspiration for bringing to West Waterford the idea of London’s old chop houses - which sold various chops, cutlets and steaks on the bone.

An assortment of chops, cutlets, steaks and pies are, quite literally, the backbone of the menu here and the sourcing is impeccable, with beef, lamb, mutton and pork coming from McGrath’s traditional butchers shop, plus bacon, sausages and puddings from Caherbeg Free Range Pork, in West Cork. Seafood from Ballycotton Seafood and O’Connell’s in Cork’s English Market also features, including oysters in season and whole fish cooked on the bone, and you’ll find game in season from nearby Ballynatray Estate.

Vegetables and soft fruit are mainly home-grown by Justin’s father Jeremy Green in the walled kitchen garden at Ballyvolane House (and also supplied by H.R. Dowd in Lismore), Ballyvolane eggs are used for baking and breakfast, local beekeepers provide honey - and, as the Greens enjoy foraging, you can expect lots of wild food here too.

It’s an all-day operation, serving morning coffees, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner and ‘in-between time’ snacks – and their traditional Sunday lunch roasts and feasting menus for groups are unusual, and proving a real hit.

Menus reflect the changing seasons and, except for special menus such as Sunday lunch, lunch and dinner are interchangeable, offering starters such as Ham hock terrine, apple-raisin chutney & toast or Devilled McGrath’s lamb’s kidneys on toast, followed by forgotten classics like McGrath’s lamb mixed grill (chops, liver and kidneys) with chips & redcurrant sauce or, for the seriously hungry, McGrath’s Porterhouse steak (1 kg) for two, with chips & béarnaise sauce.

Vegetarians do well too, courtesy of the Ballyvolane walled garden - Pear, walled-garden rocket, pine nut & Desmond cheese salad is a popular vegetarian starter for instance, and summer mains might include a butternut squash and garden courgette ragout with wild rice.

Desserts include seasonal fruits – rhubarb custard perhaps, or Vanilla crème brulee with Ballyvolane House rapsberries, or you can have a selection of artisan cheeses from nearby areas (Waterford, Cork and Tipperary).

The style is simple and wholesome - a welcome contrast to the cheffy cooking that is currently all too common and, if there is a downside, it would only be that prices might seem high at lunchtime, because we are all too used to being spoilt by getting very similar food to whatever is offered for dinner but for much less. It would be well-spent money but, if the time or occasion don’t suit a blow-out, the blackboard lunch (offering a quick 2/3 course meal for €14.90/18.90) is the answer and offers very good value.

An equally well-sourced wine list is arranged by style, sensibly priced and, appropriately for an all day restaurant, offers something for all tastes and occasions – plenty of bubblies, something by the glass in each section and a well-chosen choice of sherries, dessert wines and port – and, of course, there’s the house special Elderflower Fizz (glass, €3.50).

All this and charming service too – O’Brien Chop House provides yet another irresistible reason to head for magical West Waterford.

The Greens also run The Canteen at Livinghealth Clinic in Mitchelstown.

Seats 40 (outdoor seating, 20). Open 7 days July & August, then Wed-Sat from 10am, L 12-3pm, D 6.30-9.30. Afternoon tea 3-6pm, also bar menu 3-10pm. Sun from 11.30am, traditional Sunday roast 12-4pm. Value L & D weekdays €20; set 2/3 course Sun L €24.90/29.90; also a la carte. Children welcome (high chair, childrens menu, baby changing facilities). Toilets wheelchair accessible. Free WiFi. House wine €23.50. Open 7 days Jul-Aug, then closed Mon & Tue (except Bank Hols). MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

At the east end of Lismore’s main street.