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Odessa Lounge & Grill

Tucked away just a few minutes walk from Grafton Street, this was one of the first places in Dublin to do brunch - a smart entrance gives way to a fashionably furnished restaurant and, downstairs, a more clubby room with comfy leather chairs, subdued lighting, and plenty of room to spread out and read the papers in peace, is an appealing place to be after a late night on the town.

Menus, which were ahead of fashion when Odessa opened in 1994 and have changed little since, have an emphasis on seasonal ingredients - fresh seafood is a good bet and may include Galway Bay lobster and wild Irish crab, when available. Inconsistent cooking and disoragnised service were weakness on a recent visit by the Guide, however.

*The Odessa Club (www.odessaclub.ie) is a private Members Bar with screening facilities on the second floor, and is affiliated with Societe De Kring (www.kring.nl) in Amsterdam; wine tasting dinners are held regularly, and Odessa Club members are offered a special rate for accommodation nearby at Grafton House (www.graftonguesthouse.com; Tel 01 679 2041), 26/27 South Great George's Street.

Seats 190 (private room, 60); air conditioning. Sat & Sun open brunch 11.30-4.30; D daily 6-11, Early bird D about €20 (Sun-Fri, 6-7); Set D about €28/40 2/4 course. House Wine €20. SC 12.5%. Closed Bank Hols, 25/26 Dec. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Just off George's Street / Exchequer Street.