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Rhodes D7

Despite debate amongst Dubliners as to whether Gary Rhodes was ill-advised to open here in 2006, in a part of town which is only just beginning to blossom, it appears to be thriving.

The restaurant is set back from the street a little, allowing for tables at a terrace along the front, which is perfect for smokers although the space is tight for comfort and ease of service. Inside, the basic structure is modern but the designers have gone for a mixum-gatherum of styles which does little for the atmosphere: the interior is dominated by some specially commissioned and very colourful large modern paintings which you will love or loathe but, with an antique table here, trellis-back chairs there, modern table settings, and some vaguely old-fashioned light fittings, it doesn't add up to a 'look'.

But it is on the food, wine and service - that Rhodes is judged and, although, essentially a franchise - Gary Rhodes was upfront from the start that he would not personally be cooking - head chef Paul Hargraves worked with him as sous chef for six years before coming to Dublin, and his cooking is impressive.

The menu is well-judged, offering plenty of choice from a dozen or so appealing starters and main courses including specialities such as haddock rarebit and gammon steak.

Decent wines from an interesting list should certainly please, with a good choice by the glass.

Based on a UK prototype, some feel that there's an 'Englishness' which seems stilted in Dublin but the Rhodes menus have been adapted carefully and there's a genuine commitment to using Irish produce where possible. The cooking is generally excellent and, although service was inconsistent in the early days, this is becoming a favourite with Dubliners.

Children welcome; Toilets wheelchair accessible. Seat 248 (private room, 50, outdoors, 50); air conditioning; pianist playing various times. Food served Mon-Sat, 12-10.15pm (closed Mon D), set 2 course L €17.50; also a la carte L&D. Closed all Sun & Mon D, Bank Hols. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Junction of Capel St. and Mary's Abbey