Seapoint aims, and manages, to tick many boxes. This county Dublin restaurants a suburban eatery that is built to survive these tighter times, and to maximise the potential for getting footfall through its cutesy courtyard off Monkstown's well-served strip of restaurants and into the bright and breezy space of its long dining room.
It draws locals in with a range of offerings which include morning coffee, light lunches (from the charmingly titled 'afternoon dip' menu), antipasti with or without a glass/bottle of wine, and a dinner menu with impressively affordable choices (including several fish offerings under €20) alongside deliciously indulgent ones (rock oysters on ice perhaps).
More importantly, Seapoint keeps the locals coming back thanks to the help of a strong team which include accomplished chef Nick Clapham, previously of Ernies in Donnybrook, leading the kitchen, and proprietor Shane Kenny, formerly of Wines Direct, guiding a cheerful front-of-house team.
Shane's passion for small producers is evident in the well-priced, comprehensive list which is laid out according to wine style and from which many wines are offered by the glass.
The kitchen's approach to ingredients is similarly unfussy and clear in focus: central ingredients are treated with respect and supported but not crowded by bold accompanying flavours, with a healthy leaning towards fresh herbs and vegetables.
All in all, a confident and assured establishment.