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Shu

Set back somewhat from the main road, tall arched windows and a smartly painted Victorian frontage exude warmth, providing a vivid contrast to the stainless steel efficiency of the bar and de rigeur 'on view' kitchen of Alan Reid's fashionable restaurant.

After a courteous welcome, guests are led into a large and atmospheric L shaped room which is light and airy, with shiny metal softened by terracotta pillars and discreet covers. Headed up by the fervent Brian McCann since 2004, a seriously talented team of chefs are in serious pursuit of gastronomic excellence here - McCann's training with chefs of distinction, like the legendary Marco Pierre White, Philip Howard at London's celebrated Square restaurant, and his experience as head chef at the late Robbie Millar's Shanks restaurant is very evident in his menus at Shu.

Superb freshly baked breads (still warm), served with delicious oils and olives offer a small taste of what is to follow, in menus that really do have something to suit every taste and pocket, combining classics with much-loved brasserie favourites. A choice of á la carte and set menus at lunch and dinner offer exceptional value, and illustrate this chef's dedication to seasonal provenance.

Typically you may find that a starter of smoked salmon, potato salad, fine herbs and horseradish is pretty and refreshing, although perhaps upstaged by a beautifully creamy summer vegetable and mascarpone risotto with very fresh vegetables (peas, beans, butternut squash) topped with fine shavings of summer truffle, which is offered as a starter or main course (£4.50/£9.00).

Of the main courses what seafood lover could resist spankingly fresh and perfectly cooked roasted wild hake, with new potatoes, braised fennel and a light fish broth the broth like a bouillabaisse, packed with flavour but perfectly light for lunch time. But the dish that stole the show on the Guide's most recent visit was crispy pork belly, with cauliflower purée, potato gratin and cider soaked raisins - a sublime flavour combination with real depth and apparently effortlessly executed.

A refreshing salad might then be a good choice, or delicious dessert such as blueberry clafoutis with mascarpone, yoghurt and honey or a rich chocolate pudding with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream.

Under the supervision of restaurant manager Julian Henry, an enthusiastic, friendly restaurant team offer very professional service - and a comprehensive wine list with many choices available by the glass also matches the food.

Downstairs Shubar provides a good place to enjoy pre or post dinner drinks, and an upstairs room is available for private parties.

With great food, service and atmosphere Shu continues to up the ante on the Belfast restaurant scene. Lucky old Belfast!

Children welcome; air conditioning. Seats 80 (private room, 24). L Mon-Sat, 12-2.30, D Mon-Sat 6-9 (Sat to 9.30). L £7-13, 1-3 courses; value D £17.50, Mon-Thu, 6-10pm (also available in Shu Bar Fri, Sat); otherwise á la carte; house wine from £15.50; s.c. discretionary (10% on parties of 6+). Bar open Fri & Sat 7-1. Closed Sun, 24-26 Dec, 11-13 Jul. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Switch.

Directions:

Half mile south on Lisburn Road.