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Star Anise

A smartly painted frontage and cool frosted glass windows create a good impression on arrival at this chic contemporary restaurant - a feeling quickly confirmed by an attractive interior, with clean-lined modern table settings (linen napkins, gleaming glasses), mellow lighting, judiciously placed plants and some very attractive paintings and prints.

Virginie Sarrazin's welcome is speedy, and the hospitality is genuine: a choice of table (if available), and tempting menus promptly presented. Proprietor-chef Lambros Lambrou's pleasingly seasonal, accurately described menus are well-balanced - with imaginative choices for vegetarians, and also some daily specials - and the reading is made all the more enjoyable by the arrival of a complimentary amuse-bouche and speedily delivered bread.

Speciality dishes tend to favour seafood - Mediterranean fish stew, for example, and carnivores will love the slow cooked lamb, with classic desserts to finish. Imaginative food, sassy service, and an interesting wine list too; wines by the glass chalked up on a board start at about €5 and include a sparkling wine.

Children welcome (high chair). Seats 35. Air conditioning. L & D Tue-Sat, 12-2.30; D, 6-10. Early D €22.95, 6-7pm; also A la carte. House wine from €21. SC 10% on groups 6+. Open all year. Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.

Directions:

Between Patrick's Bridge and McCurtain Street