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Thornton's Restaurant

With views overlooking St Stephen's Green, Kevin and Muriel Thornton's renowned restaurant is found on the top floor of the Fitzwilliam Hotel. You can take a lift up through the hotel, but it is best approached from its own entrance on the Green: mounting the wide staircase, deep-carpeted in dark blue, conveys a sense of occasion.

The rather plain dining room has had a welcome renovation and is now a more stylish space: the square room has been divided by panels of glass over-printed with sepia toned fish scales; Just like the arresting photography hanging on the walls these were shot by Kevin, who is as adept with a camera as a frying pan.

The clever revamp has seen the addition of an intimate canapé bar with comfy sofas where diners can drop in for a more relaxed experience. Miniature creations - perhaps foie gras rolled in toasted almonds or goose with aubergine chips - can be individually ordered to accompany some exceptional wines by the glass, such as the celebrated dessert wine, Chateau d'Yquem (€40 per glass).

For those who have come to dine, however, the understated linen-clad tables leave you in no doubt that the food is to be the star here. Given that Kevin Thornton is one of the most talented chef's in the country, lunch, with two courses costing just €35, represents outstanding value. Dinner is a full-on gourmet affair and though the á la carte offers just three choices per course; it's the tasting menus, available as 5, 8 or 14 courses (€85, €125, €180) that really showcase his genius.

Kevin Thornton has a perfectionist's eye for detail with a palate to match, and uses only the very best seasonal ingredients. He has a name for generosity with truffles and he will not disappoint: a vegetarian first course of warm white asparagus is served with truffle hollandaise and green asparagus bavarois for example, and among the seafood dishes you will find a luxurious signature dish of sautéed prawns with prawn bisque, and truffle sabayon.

Other signature dishes include roast suckling pig, and trotter served with glazed turnip and a light poitin sauce - and variations on these creations appear throughout an 8-course Surprise Menu (€125). Desserts, like a signature warm Valrhona chocolate fondant, and imaginative petit fours, are always exquisite.

Although beautifully presented, this is not show-off food - the cooking is never less than sublime and the emphasis is always on flavour.

As one would expect for dining at this level, the wine list is extensive, featuring many great marques and a good choice of wines by the glass.

Service, under the guidance of Kevin's brother, maître d'Garret Thornton, is formal and never less than polished, although recent visits suggest that there's a need for real presence in the dining room to match the level of passion in the kitchen.

Cooking this exceptional will always be the star of the show, but it would be nice to see Thorntons delivering a restaurant experience with a wow factor to match.

Seats 60; reservations recommended; children welcome; air conditioning. L Thu-Sat, 12.30-2pm; D Tue-Sat, 6-10.30pm. L&D a la carte; Tasting Menu also offered, from €95-185 for 5-14 courses. House wine from €26. SC discretionary. Closed Sun, 24 Dec - 2 Jan. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser. *Canapé Bar open from 1pm to midnight.

Directions:

On St Stephen's Green (corner at top of Grafton Street); entrance beside Fitzwilliam Hotel.